Ok I looked up how to do it without sound.
So looking at the fuse as a [ : ] I tested the large orange wire and probed to top it reads 0.01 tested on the bottom and it said 1. Small orange wire tested top reads 1 and bottom reads 0.00. With everything off.

 

I am looking for ways to help us work through this given that you are a novice with electrical testing and we have numbers that don't make any sense so we must have a measurement issue. I applaud your desire to learn and your perseverance but trying to do this remote control at your level is tough, especially since I started off not understanding your level of knowledge. A meter with a continuity setting with beep confirmation would have removed some of the potential confusion.

When you state a meter value you need to state the units so when doing resistance measurements is it XX ohms, XX k ohms/kilo ohms or XX m ohms/mega ohms, or a unitless "1" or "0L" which is usually an open circuit/infinite resistance/no continuity. Use the 200 ohm scale to start with. If you get a full scale reading then increase the range to see if you get a finite value in a higher range or does the reading stay infinite/open circuit.

For volts use the 20 VDC scale which is the 20 with the two straight lines above it.

Remove the HDLP SW fuse 7, 10A from the IPFB and the Park LP Fuse 20A from the UHFB with everything off and use the volt meter setting (20 VDC scale) to find the side of each fuse socket that has 12V always on power and report those values and then confirm no +12V power on the other side of each socket. Make a note of the powered side of each socket. Always state the units here too. so 12.2VDC for instance.

So now restate your last numbers with units and tell me the scale/setting that the meter is on. Fuses out, everything off, non powered side of each fuse socket to the end of each orange wire where it connects to the headlamp switch, switch removed.

Then HL SW still removed and replace only the HDLP SW Fuse 10A and remeasure the DC volts at each orange wire where they connect to the HD SW.


George

 

This may be helpful:

https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...59/#post732668


George

 

I am waiting to have a different multimeter that beeps brought to me. The one I have just causes more confusion on whether I am doing it correctly or not. I tried the steps above and it read 0.00 DCV so I believe I may not be doing it correctly.

 

I want to help you and I appreciate you wanting to learn how to diagnose electrical circuits but right now your skills still need to develop. Do you know anyone with more experience that can work with us (and you locally) to diagnose your problem?


George

 

And I Thank You kindly for your patience with me. Unfortunately the few shops I actually trust told me to go to the dealership that it was a dealership problem they couldn't do or should I say maybe they didnt want to do it. Plus too spendy for me to bring it to the dealership. I could ask a few others, but it's a shot in the dark.

 

I can handle finding your problem but do you know anybody that can drive a digital meter so if I say "check continuity from the x fuse to the orange wire at the switch connector", they know what I am talking about? Or if I say disconnect the white wire at the switch and put fused power on that wire they can handle that? Or check the quality of the ground on the switch black wire? I have all your schematics and know how to diagnose electrical problems but we need someone who generally knows how to use a meter for basic testing and to connect basic wiring.

If your local mechanics don't want to touch it then it may be a complicated problem like something with the BCM or the class 2 serial data which would make us doing this even more difficult. Literally everything that we have discussed so far can be done in 15 minutes with a $25 meter. The whole thing can be diagnosed in less than an hour but not like this. Like I said, I want to help but this is getting painful so I am looking for ways to still get you fixed up.


George

 

I have someone who brought over a wire trace he said this would help. Hopefully this will help in finding maybe a break in the wire??? Also will be checking the DCV as well

 

Why have reputable shops in your area refused to work on your truck? Do they think that this is computer related like the BCM or data lines or do they think this requires a dealership scanner to diagnose properly (access to GM specific codes). Any reputable shop can do what we have been trying to do in less than an hour. Who replaced the parts you referenced in your initial post?


George

 

I’m sorry that I could not help you fix your truck. It’s a tall order for someone with no electronics testing and repairing experience to be able to repair a vehicle that a reputable repair shop won’t touch being guided remote control in this inefficient back and forth process. I like that you are trying to learn, it’s where we all start. I hope you get straightened out.


George