old skool luvr
I hope you arent talking to me about the not knowing what I am doing. There may be some things that I cannot tackle but when it comes to bagging things I am pretty damn good at it. I have bagged dozens of rides I just recently these past few years got into the lifting side of suspensions, but I have been slamming minis for over a decade as well as shaving them, putting in huge systems and all the traditional stuff including wrapping interior in tweed and pretty much anything else that is associated with minis.

S10blazerdude
I really strongly suggest not using bolt on if you are really able to cough up the dough. Weld in is always stronger in my opinion, but hey I have only been a welder/fabricator for over 13 years. What do I know.....LOL I will try and find some more companies with kits if your curious but if not then goodluck to you.

 

i think the suicidedoors and lowrider depot bolt in link kits are great for daily driving

my buddy just did his truck using the lowrider depot one only took him a couple days

BUT
the bolt in links dont work on blazers, one reason why i did my blazer instead of a pickup was the fact that there is no bolt in kit which means there are less blazers that are fully bagged and layed out

 

... should I be sorry for planting this see? lmao.

Bolt in doesn't work eh? That's an interesting tidbit... what's stopping it qtips?

 

it may work on a 2nd gen 4 door
but not on any of the others because of the curved frame

 

5/6 is very low. I helped my friend install a 5/6 on his late 80s blazer and it smacks the front crossmember on coins on the road, and we never notched the rear frame at all. The kit he had to install was a front spindle/spring kit and a rear block and shackle kit, and 4 new shocks that were much shorter than the stockers. I think its way too low, and the thing has a V8 in it. We measured before and after and it was actually a 6/6.5 drop that it went down and the 18 inch tires are not as tall as the original tire size was, so it gets another inch of drop from that. It looks really cool, but you cant ever enter a driveway straight on again and the rear suspention bottoms out very easily onto the frame, it even bottoms out the rear suspention when you punch it off the lights, which isnt bad its kinda got the same effect as traction bars do and when it hits the frame the wheels stop hopping. Its a fast and fun little minitruck, but you better bring your kidney belts.

 

ohsofly
Thats just another reason to go with a bagged suspension. You get all the looks of it being slammed but at any point you need to get higher, the option is there at the flip of a switch. Sounds like your buddy needs to step notch the rear to stop him from bottoming out.

 

Yeah I think I will go with the air bags......i just dont have enough money for the weld on kit.......but if you can find a bolt on or weld on kit with bags and every thing you need for under 1500 bucks I can do it......just link it for me and I will see what I can do.....

 

Dude the weld in is cheaper than bolt on because they are universal not made for specific applications..... here are some links to what you need....

http://www.suicidedoors.com/air-mana...ement-kit-3-38

http://www.suicidedoors.com/4-link-k...ted-4-link-kit

http://www.suicidedoors.com/bag-brac...ag-bracket-kit

just make sure you tell them you need the step notch for the blazer and not the s10 because the frame is different on the blazers.... the front cup bag brackets are the same though I am pretty sure.... If they arent then they will tell you at suicidedoors when you talk to them.

all together that puts you like around 1600 bucks, and this setup will give you full control of every corner of you truck with electric valves.......

 

sorry brother, no need to rhyme off a list of your accomplishments, i should've just made it more clear that i was refering to the OP.


drops never amount to what they calculate to on paper. my '78 full size gained almost an extrta inch in the front end somehow-but i never complained about it.

as for not notching the frame rails.............that's just dumb, and not safe-never mind being illegal. talk to your local PD and see what they'll tell you about having suspension travel limited like that.

as for it sitting too low (in your opinion)..............if you build a vehicle with an altered, unassisted ride height, then you should be of the mind set for the driving styles that go along with it. ie, looking ahead for road hazzards (pot holes, road debris, etc.). my brother's '83 Dime has a 3"spindle/3" coil up front, running on 225/35/18's......and while he does need to replace the factory air dam after a few Summer's of backing in & driving out of his driveway, he is still able to do it.

hell, i drove my LB year round, and the crosmember was only 2 1/2 inches off the ground!