2000 Blazer 4WD
Serviced it yesterday. Noticed that the drivers side shaft was wet around the boot and there was alot of grease sitting on top of the lower control arm. I'm guessing the boot has failed. What is the difficulty of the repair and approximate cost? Would you go with new or anyone have good luck with remanned?
Thanks

 

If the joint is still OK you can get a boot kit from most parts stores. for about $20. I've seen some that are split and just slip over your old boot and you clamp them on. Not sure how good they work because I just replace the whole boot (same price) which means taking out the axle. If there is any excess play, I just replace the whole axle with a rebuilt one. If money is not an issue, probably not a bad idea to replace it anyway because it's a lot of work to get that far.
If you want to replace the whole axle, it runs about $150 but I've gotten them as low as $75 from the discount stores. Here's the procedure for removing the axle on your Blazer. Not too bad if you've got the right tools . A pain if you don't. You need to seperate the ball joints and remove the hub so you may need a hub puller but you can rent the stuff from Autozone for free if you've got one nearby. A little tip from experience, the first one I did I pryed and pryed on the axle and couldn't get it out of the front differential because of the snap ring. Then I actually READ the service info and used a block of wood. Hit it one time and it popped loose. Worked every time after that!

[ol]Unlock the steering column so that the steering linkage is free to move.


Raise the vehicle. Support the vehicle with suitable safety stands. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. Remove the 2front tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.


In order to prevent the drive axle from turning, insert a drift through the brake caliper and into one of the rotor vanes.


Remove the axle nut and washer. Remove the drift from the brake rotor. Remove the front brake rotors and support the caliper with a piece of wire in order to prevent damage to the brake hose. Refer to Brake Rotor Replacement - Front in Disc Brakes.


Remove the brackets from the upper control arm holding both the ABS wire and the brake hose. Remove the ABS bracket located on the top of the upper control arm ball joint.


Strap the frame to the hoist in order to prevent movement.


Notice Be careful that the safety stand does not damage or bend any components it may contact. Position a safety stand under the lower control arm. Support the weight of the steering knuckle assembly and lower control arm with a safety stand.


Disengage the wheel drive shaft from the hub by placing a brass drift against the outer end of the drive axle in order to protect the threads. Sharply strike the brass drift with a hammer. Do not attempt to remove the axle at this time. Support the steering knuckle and assembly with a piece of wire in order to prevent damage to the outer tie rod and ABS wire. Disconnect the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle. Refer to Upper Ball Joint Replacement in Front Suspension. Remove the lower part of shock absorber. Refer to Shock Absorber Replacement in Front Suspension. Disconnect the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle. Refer to Steering Knuckle Replacement in Front Suspension. After the lower ball joint is loose from the knuckle, simultaneously push the axle shaft in toward the differential carrier in order to allow room for the knuckle and assembly to be removed. Remove the axle from the steering knuckle assembly. Important Lower the safety stand from the lower control arm in order to relieve the pressure of the torsion bar and in order to allow for clearance. Do not damage the axle seal during removal of the differential carrier shield. Remove the front differential carrier shield. Refer to Shield Replacement .


Disconnect the left side wheel drive shaft from the differential carrier by placing a block of wood or a brass drift against the tripot housing. Firmly strike the block of wood

 

Filstoy,
Thanks for the very informative post. It's good to know I have several options to go with.

 

The split boots will cause you more frustration than it's worth. You're better off to replace the entire shaft and be done with it IMO. I've had experience with the split boots before and it's more of a band-aid than anything.