So did you get it done? Post some pics...

 

I finished it yesterday got it aligned. All I have to say is that I should have done this a year ago. Its a combo of all the things I replaced. I relized that a idler arm isn't all that hard when you put it in right. Last year when I did the suspension overhaul it totally bent the idler arm puting it in. Anyway It took me twice as long to do this project. Trips to the part store for tools or parts. I didn't need a tool to unload the t-bars to when i took it apart but I did when I reinstall, little things that add up and I took my sweet *** time so I didn't over look anything. I spent a lot of time breaking factory bushings out. Anyway its all about having the right tool. But the T-bar tool was no where to be found out side of the internet for 150 bucks, I use a real good c-clamp which bent and had to get another. ANYWAY it drives like a new ride. I'm going without the front sway bar, I may put it back on later not sure yet. The shocks are impressive. I still have the jeep leafs added in the rear so the back sets a little higher than the front. I can turn the fronts up to match but it'll put 2 degrees negitive camber on the front tires. I had 1.75 inch lift before in the front now its at 2inch with the camber damn near dead up and down. The axles aren't in the bind they where before has to do with the improved ball joint angle. I need to post some pictures I took them but my brothers got my card reader I will post them as soon as i can upload them. Well I'm going to the car wash then look it over again I went a little off road last night. So i wanna check for rubbing of the axles or anything else that my have worked loose. I don't want to take any chances if i'm going to be doing 75 plus on the interstate in a higher setting SUV. I did 75 last night it drove excellent, I need new tires but thats gotta wait a couple of weeks, I'd like to get some late 80's iroc or z28 wheels, run something like a 31x11.5x16 or a seventeen inch wheel.

 

New update. no pics yet. The only problem I've encountered is that the CV boots rub on the shocks and that the clamp at the small end of the boot may knock against the shock. I've noticed the paint rubbing off the shock while bleeding the breaks. I put a washer to push shock forward a little. This helped but its not a permanent fix I will make a new mount bracket and cut out the old one and weld the new one about a quarter farther way from the axle and maybe make it a little higher so the shock doesn't restrict the downward travel of the control arms. It only loses the last quarter to half inch of travel anyhow. I'm kinda wondering if it the angle of the axle that makes the boots spit grease or if its actually the rubbing of the boots and boot clamp that causes the axle to spit grease... Mines not doing it now but it did from my previous setup. Anyhow anyone else ever delt with the rubbbing issue on the 2 inch lift??

 

I bought the same 2" RC lift for my 1996 Chevy Blazer and I have had some problems. I had to extend the new upper control arms 3/8" to make the camber correct, and I had to order a steering stabilizer from superlift because my tires shake so bad in 4X4 in the sand left to right that I snapped a tie rod completely in half. Also, when I am driving it feels like something is loose in the front end on my floorboard and I can feel it with my feet. And, the front end makes this weird grinding noise sometimes when I am spinning the tires in the sand. It used to do none of this withn the stock ride height but I dont care becaue now it sits cool looking and I will drive it till a snap an axle and then I aint going to screw with it any more. Im going to solid axle baby! And I tightned everything down to the factory torque specs. But, other than these issues it works good and i have got a foot of air in the front and nothing broke.

 

Wow you had to extend the control arms how much lift did you get. I got my two inches maybe a hair more and my camber is dead on. What size tire are you using. I bet the grinding is from the axles be at max angles, The kits are cool aslong as you don't let the tires get off the ground or if you alter the bump stop so that it won't allow the control arms to drop lower than the two inches.. I've started a thread in the lifted suspension area under modifications. with pictures and what not.

 

I only got 2" of lift. I have the T-bars cranked all the way so it sits perfect. I am also running 31" tires with aftermarket rims that have a smaller backspacing so they sit out more from my body giving it a stanced look. It has only made the grinding noise twice and I wasnt flexed, I was just going stait buried in the sand. Also, I had to cut my front fenders behind the tires so that they would clear when I turned.