Steering Wheel Give???
#11
05-07-2009, 06:22 PM
Both the idler arm and the pitman arm will run ~$30 each. If you get the Moog brand it will be ~$50. The Idler arm is really easy. The pitman arm requires several more steps. If you aren't the mechanical type, I might have someone else do it. It requires removing the steering box or at least unbolting it so you can rotate it to get to the nut on the pitman arm and then getting the pitman arm puller (~$10) on it.
I'll type out the steps in case you are interested:
Idler Arm
1. Block wheels, jack up RH front (passenger side), and then use a jack stand.
2. Remove RH wheel, place under vehicle (just for added safety)
3. Remove plastic skid plate
4. Where the idler arm attaches to the center link, remove the bolt. You may not have a cotter pin if it is an original idler arm.
5. There will be two long bolts holding the Idler Arm to the frame, unbolt them and set them aside.
6. Place a pickle fork between the idler arm and the center link. This will be somewhat difficult to position. If you have a long one, you can go in from the RH wheel well. I went in from the front. This should come apart fairly easily. At least compared to a ball joint. Several good whacks with a sledge hammer should be enough.
7. Installation should be the exact reverse. The new one will have a grease nipple, I would install it before you put the idler arm in place.
8. Put the idler arm into the center link, but don't bolt it there first. Bolt it to the frame and then put the crown nut (with the cotter pin) on the idler arm.
9. Grease all RH fittings.
10. Replace wheel, lower truck.
I can type out the process for the pitman arm if you want it as well.
I'll type out the steps in case you are interested:
Idler Arm
1. Block wheels, jack up RH front (passenger side), and then use a jack stand.
2. Remove RH wheel, place under vehicle (just for added safety)
3. Remove plastic skid plate
4. Where the idler arm attaches to the center link, remove the bolt. You may not have a cotter pin if it is an original idler arm.
5. There will be two long bolts holding the Idler Arm to the frame, unbolt them and set them aside.
6. Place a pickle fork between the idler arm and the center link. This will be somewhat difficult to position. If you have a long one, you can go in from the RH wheel well. I went in from the front. This should come apart fairly easily. At least compared to a ball joint. Several good whacks with a sledge hammer should be enough.
7. Installation should be the exact reverse. The new one will have a grease nipple, I would install it before you put the idler arm in place.
8. Put the idler arm into the center link, but don't bolt it there first. Bolt it to the frame and then put the crown nut (with the cotter pin) on the idler arm.
9. Grease all RH fittings.
10. Replace wheel, lower truck.
I can type out the process for the pitman arm if you want it as well.
#12
05-07-2009, 06:26 PM
okvortec,
I just noticed you have a 2WD. I think the parts are slightly cheaper in that case compared to the 4WD
I just noticed you have a 2WD. I think the parts are slightly cheaper in that case compared to the 4WD
#13
05-07-2009, 08:35 PM
With the engine off. Get under the front while someone turns the wheel back and forth. Watch the tie rod ends for slop. You may have a combination of "not too bad" tie rod ends adding up to give you a lot of steering wheel play.
I would also check the ball joints. To do this you need to get a floor jack under the lower A arm and jack the tire off the ground. Then grab the tire at the top and bottom and try to "rock" it. If there is any obvious movement then there is a bad ball joint or unit bearing.
I would also check the ball joints. To do this you need to get a floor jack under the lower A arm and jack the tire off the ground. Then grab the tire at the top and bottom and try to "rock" it. If there is any obvious movement then there is a bad ball joint or unit bearing.
Both the idler arm and the pitman arm will run ~$30 each. If you get the Moog brand it will be ~$50. The Idler arm is really easy. The pitman arm requires several more steps. If you aren't the mechanical type, I might have someone else do it. It requires removing the steering box or at least unbolting it so you can rotate it to get to the nut on the pitman arm and then getting the pitman arm puller (~$10) on it.
I'll type out the steps in case you are interested:
Idler Arm
1. Block wheels, jack up RH front (passenger side), and then use a jack stand.
2. Remove RH wheel, place under vehicle (just for added safety)
3. Remove plastic skid plate
4. Where the idler arm attaches to the center link, remove the bolt. You may not have a cotter pin if it is an original idler arm.
5. There will be two long bolts holding the Idler Arm to the frame, unbolt them and set them aside.
6. Place a pickle fork between the idler arm and the center link. This will be somewhat difficult to position. If you have a long one, you can go in from the RH wheel well. I went in from the front. This should come apart fairly easily. At least compared to a ball joint. Several good whacks with a sledge hammer should be enough.
7. Installation should be the exact reverse. The new one will have a grease nipple, I would install it before you put the idler arm in place.
8. Put the idler arm into the center link, but don't bolt it there first. Bolt it to the frame and then put the crown nut (with the cotter pin) on the idler arm.
9. Grease all RH fittings.
10. Replace wheel, lower truck.
I can type out the process for the pitman arm if you want it as well.
I'll type out the steps in case you are interested:
Idler Arm
1. Block wheels, jack up RH front (passenger side), and then use a jack stand.
2. Remove RH wheel, place under vehicle (just for added safety)
3. Remove plastic skid plate
4. Where the idler arm attaches to the center link, remove the bolt. You may not have a cotter pin if it is an original idler arm.
5. There will be two long bolts holding the Idler Arm to the frame, unbolt them and set them aside.
6. Place a pickle fork between the idler arm and the center link. This will be somewhat difficult to position. If you have a long one, you can go in from the RH wheel well. I went in from the front. This should come apart fairly easily. At least compared to a ball joint. Several good whacks with a sledge hammer should be enough.
7. Installation should be the exact reverse. The new one will have a grease nipple, I would install it before you put the idler arm in place.
8. Put the idler arm into the center link, but don't bolt it there first. Bolt it to the frame and then put the crown nut (with the cotter pin) on the idler arm.
9. Grease all RH fittings.
10. Replace wheel, lower truck.
I can type out the process for the pitman arm if you want it as well.
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