So which side of the picture is the front of the truck?

 

Psychropod: This picture is looking from the rear to the front. Top right is back, bottom left is front.

jphayes921: New shocks arent required but i recommend it because you may bottom out your factory shocks. I know i did, plus they are cheap and its just good maintenance.

 

Well, nothing ever comes easy. I just installed some 235-75-15 Bridgestone Duelers which look AWESOME but theres a little rubbing when I turn left! But this tire size was supposed to be factory spec! [:@]

Im thinking its sagging, due to the age of the truck. As a result, I plan to do an emergency 2-inch t-bar and shackle lift, ASAP. I guess my only other option would be to replace the fronts with tires of a slightly smaller size, which Id rather not do.

Ive read through the posts and instructions on how to do this. However, the pix are gone. I also want to be sure I dont kill myself or my truck, so I need to make sure all safety precautions are taken. Can somebody please answer the following questions for me? [ul][*]Where exactly should I place the jack stands when I install the shackles on the back?[*]Can I leave the front wheels on when I crank the t-bars?[*]Does the front have to be jacked up when I do the t-bars?[*]Is it absolutely necessary to replace my shocks as soon as I do it? If so, what brand is recommended?[/ul]Thanks as always for the help!

EDIT: Well, I was kinda looking for a quick answer, but nobody replied. I called my mechanic buddy, who answered the questions for me. He says I should only have to lift the front about an inch in order to stop the rubbing, and I probably dont even need to do anything to the rear. He also says it doesnt even need to be jacked up. Also, an alternative to marking the bolt is to just measure the distance from the ground to the bottom of the fender before and after the lift, so that you know exactly how high you lifted it.

I may just do this emergency 1-inch lift to the front now, then have a professional install a body lift in the spring. After reading Daves posts, I dont think I want to attempt that one myself!

If anybody else has any feedback, please feel free to reply.

 

Christmas Eve Bump!

Hmmm...still no replies. Anyway, I found the torsion bolts pretty easily, marked them, and then sprayed with PB Blaster. I`m waiting a couple of hours before I try turning them. However, I noticed that the driver`s side bolt is much further in than the passenger side. I`m assuming this means the left side issagging more than the right? Just looking at it, I`m thinking I won`t be able to get more than 1, maybe 2 turns out of it. This could also explain why my ball joint on the left side popped on July 4th.Is there anything I should check for excessive wear? Any feedback from anybody???

[IMG]local://upfiles/6657/F947658AFD3241248F69EA16352151E9.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/6657/6D8DAD5107D843209D39B4E4863BE9E8.jpg[/IMG]

 

I found the same with my tbar bolts. I cranked the passengers up about 8 times, to even things out.

As for a previous post, the shackles SHOULD be easy. Like was said, drop the spare - a lot of extra room. On the 4 door, there are fuel system components that make it impossible to get a socket on the nut, and the exhaust is a PITA to work around on the other.

For me, the thing that went wrong, as the bolt seized in the sleve running through the passengers side spring. I had to remove the u-bolts to lower the spring so I could beat it out with a 4 pound hammer. I could have had it out faster If I could have removed the whole spring, but the bolt in the front hits the muffler.