Is that for both 2 and 4wd. Do you think it would have damaged those bolts to be torqued at 115. I guess I could take them out put new loctite on them and retorque
them. Let me know what you think.

 

Same for both.

Worst case scenario is that you stretched the bolts and they now are weaker. If one were to break, the hub with the attached wheel could leave the truck... I don't have any material specs on the bolts to be able to tell you if that happened though.

 

I think I will call the dealer and see if he has them in stock. My son is about to get on the road and I do not want to worry. Thanks Also I need to get another manual apparently this one is not correct on any of the specs. It is a Mitchell Diagnostic cd

 

Thanks, swartlkk for your sound advice. The last thing I want is to have to do the same job over again next year by using the inferior bearings made in China !!!

The mechanic was recommended to me for doing good work by someone I trust, so I have little doubt about his work. He just leaves the tax man out of the picture and saves me a bundle. I've had bad work/advice from most of the big garages (with their big charges) around here, so I need to try a new shop because it's quite cold in my garage at this time of year to do the work myself.

With regards to parts, he will try to get the bearings out, otherwise the whole assembly will have to go. The bearings I priced were National Seal, the same brand I've used in my rear end last year and a short time ago to replace my pinion seal. They seem to be the only ones offering the inner and outer bearings by themselves. I believe their products are quite good, but maybe not quite as good as Timken and SKF. I am familiar with Timken from my days on the railway, Timken make roller bearings for railroad cars; of course, that's not to say that Timken bearings haven't failed on the railroads !!!

Timken bearings seem to be hard to find around here, but SKF bearings are easy to get albeit pricey, so if I have to go with the entire assembly I'm probably looking at an SKF assembly, which the suppliers tell me are better than the Timken assembly - everyone has an opinion, lol.

Happy New Year

 

The torque to be applied to a nut on a bolt is theoretically calculated based on the strength of the steel used (or expected to be used) and the size of the bolt and nut to achieve maximum holding power without causing stresses to the steel either in the nut or in the bolt. Calculations always integrate a factor of safety. We, of course, don't know any of the variables so it's impossible to tell if 115 ft-lbs would have caused any damage. That could be within the factor of safety, which would mean you're OK. If 115 ft-lbs is outside of the factor of safety, you could have overstressed the bolt or the nut and either could fail. Short of replacing them, I would keep a very close eye on them to ensure that nothing shows signs of either hair line cracks or pull-aparts. If you find any, you'll have to replace the failed parts. Hopefully you'll find any problems before something bad happens as suggested by swartlkk.

Sounds like different people have their torque numbers messed up!

 

I had my wheel bearing replaced today and all seems to be OK now. The tires are a bit noisy but not unexpectedly so for SUV tires. I had to go with a complete hub/bearing assembly and chose an SKF unit. The mechanic had a hell of a time getting the hub off (so I am glad I took the truck to him) and just couldn't get the old bearings out of the hub. I'm now about $360.00 poorer but happy with the results.