Hi, I'm seeking input on the following items. I just got a diagnosis from a mechanic and it's way more than I had thought...

1) engine light on due to evaporative emissions. They believe its due to a Fuel filler neck needing repair. Depending on after market vs GM cost to repair is $375 or $500.

2) Entine noise near belt. Alternator is squeaking apparently and need to replace it and the Tensioner. I sprayed the belt and area with grease other day and it helped some but noise is there. $450 total cost. This stinks cause the bearings in alternator are rubbing while the functionality of it is fine.

3) Rear noise behind me when I start accelerating. U-joint needs replacing. $175.

Those are the reasons I brought car in. The third is probably most pressing, and just passed emission test a few weeks ago so can live with engine light on.

What do you guys think I should do? Car is 12 yrs old but only 99k miles. I'd like to keep it til 2015 but lately issues have been accelerating. Put 1200 into it this past spring. Visually it's in great condition.

Thanks for help.

 

All of these issues are easy to addressI wouldn't pay them to fix though....... Costs to damn much, get the parts and get to work

 

99 K is not alot of mileage in today's vehicle ownership standards.

 

Those costs are INSANE!! do you have any tools? Just basic wrenches and sockets? All of those are easy in-driveway repairs. Each one could be knocked out in a weekend, even if you have never done it before. There are plenty of threads on here, and helpful members to guide you along the way.

 

1) Get under the right rear wheel and take a good look around. Problem could be a rotten vacuum hose which is a very easy fix. Also check for a small hole in the fuel filler hose. Also not to difficult to replace.

2) Belt tensioner comes off with a single bolt and might be able to replace just the bearing. The alternator comes off by removing a couple of bolts. Search around where you live for an alternator rebuild shop. They could replace the bearing for you for just a few $$s.

3) Replacing U joints is not really difficult either. Does require a few tools though. New U joint is about $20. A removal tool is usually available for rent/free. Tool is a big C clamp that pushes the J joint out and then used to press the new one in. Check out YouTube videos. Just be sure to mark the driveshaft position relative to the rear flange so that it can be put back in the same, otherwise a vibration may show-up.
3)

 

Understandably most mechanics have nether the time or inclination to shop for the best parts prices. They just call up there supplier who drops them of at the shop. The parts get dropped to him at a inflated price for the convenience. Then he bumps them a little for doing the diagnostic.
For him to spend the time price shopping for you on the internet then wait for them to come in ups in dribs and drabs is just not practical.
So if you don't want to or don't feel comfortable doing the work yourself the best thing you can do is find a mechanic who will work for straight-up installation price.
Find the parts online yourself pay for them and bring the parts and truck to him.
The problem is if this does not fix your problems the mechanic will just say "hey I didn't do the diagnostic workup, you told me to put these parts in and I did" and he would be absolutely correct. So your left with no one to bitch at but you do have new installed parts.

 

Meant to post earlier. Thanks everyone for the advice.

I had only the #3 U-Joint replacement completed. No more noise from the rear. The engine noise (alternator bearings) has gotten better since I sprayed WD40 last week but I expect that will come back. Engine light is off after their diagnostics though also expect this to come back on.

The car is driving fine now. Hopefully I can buy myself time before I need to make next repairs, and when I do will try to do it a more economical way. I have several options, though doubt that will include me doing the work myself.