Fuel pump and/or sending unit differences???
#11
Okay so here's what I've figured out. The ONLY difference between then 2dr and 4dr level sensor units is that the 2dr has longer wires on it to go down to the fuel pump a maybe a little longer wires that are actually going to the level sensor itself since the assembly is taller. Other than that, they're identical down to the resistance through the whole sweep. Plugs at the top of the assembly and at the fuel pump are the same. Basically, you could put a 2dr one in a 4dr, but you couldn't put a 4dr in a 2dr because the wires would be too short.
So looks like I'll be putting the Delphi unit out of the 2dr (pictured on the left) into my 4dr, it'll just have some extra wire, which shouldn't be a problem at all
So looks like I'll be putting the Delphi unit out of the 2dr (pictured on the left) into my 4dr, it'll just have some extra wire, which shouldn't be a problem at all
Last edited by blazen_red_4x4; 07-10-2014 at 08:38 AM.
#12
I got a question for you all. I have a 2000 blazer 2 door. I put in a new fuel pump and it will pump fuel out of the fuel filter win disconnected but I am not getting any fuel to the motor. I thought I might have a clog so I put 120 psi of air through the line. I got air at the other end nothing else. the fuel pump I got from rockauto.com, its a ultra power. I have a 4.3L V6 CSEFI. when I got the new pump I had to change the wire connector. no problem, I can't find what volts are to be at the pump when it's turned on? I have been working on this thing for like a week and its driving me mad. could it be a the pump or ?????. Thank for any feed back.
#13
Got the tank out by 10:30, no hiccups at all, other than having to fight off ants the hole time... stupid things had a trail going under my truck... But the tank dropping process was a lot easier than I thought it was going to be, was dreading the work all week...
Got the pump out and made a discovery... I had THOUGH that the pump had never been replaced before, but I had my suspicions when I see the screw on hose clamp on the fuel filler neck... everything I had read before says the factory clamp is crimped on and has to be cut off... The real proof is when I actually got the pump out...
So that probably means I'll be dropping the tank again within 6 months to replace the pump... But hey at least I got the process down now lol
Ran into another issue because it was aftermarket... The level sensor assembly was physically different
BUT, looking close at the electronics, they looked identical. So I popped out the brass insert that holds the float arm on and was able to swap the main board and the arm.
The main problem was just as I suspected it would be once I got to looking at it. The fingers on the arms were damn near completely worn off. New on the left, old on the right.
Had to swap the plugs over just by popping the pins out, but I was able to swap all the electronics without any soldering or anything. Put it all back together and it's a good things I grabbed a new tank gasket and lock ring, the old gasket was pretty hard and the lock ring was pretty rusted. Everything went back together without a hitch
Low and behold, I have a working fuel gauge now!
Got the pump out and made a discovery... I had THOUGH that the pump had never been replaced before, but I had my suspicions when I see the screw on hose clamp on the fuel filler neck... everything I had read before says the factory clamp is crimped on and has to be cut off... The real proof is when I actually got the pump out...
So that probably means I'll be dropping the tank again within 6 months to replace the pump... But hey at least I got the process down now lol
Ran into another issue because it was aftermarket... The level sensor assembly was physically different
BUT, looking close at the electronics, they looked identical. So I popped out the brass insert that holds the float arm on and was able to swap the main board and the arm.
The main problem was just as I suspected it would be once I got to looking at it. The fingers on the arms were damn near completely worn off. New on the left, old on the right.
Had to swap the plugs over just by popping the pins out, but I was able to swap all the electronics without any soldering or anything. Put it all back together and it's a good things I grabbed a new tank gasket and lock ring, the old gasket was pretty hard and the lock ring was pretty rusted. Everything went back together without a hitch
Low and behold, I have a working fuel gauge now!
#14
well now I've got a new issue, yaye!...
before I ever dropped the tank I battled a P0452 code, so my first attempt at fixing it was to try and swap the pressure sensor that's on top of the pump assembly. that actually fixed the problem, I turned the light off and it never came back on
now that I dropped the tank and put it back, the same code threw again... today over my break I tried popping the sensor out and reseating it and making sure the plug was seated all the way. cleared the light again and after a few ignition cycles the light threw on again, same code again, P0452...
I know for sure I hooked up the vent hose on the front of the tank when I put it back in, all the lines are hooked up and tight and not leaking gas, I don't smell any gas, I filled the tank all the way up after getting everything back together, no gas is leaking out or anything, so I'm not sure what the deal is... also changed the vent solenoid when I changed the pressure sensor because a code was throwing for it too, but it hasn't been giving me any issues either... and yes the gas cap is seated good, before anyone asks...
possible that the pump gasket I installed is faulty? could I have popped a line loose somewhere else on accident while I was fooling around under there?
before I ever dropped the tank I battled a P0452 code, so my first attempt at fixing it was to try and swap the pressure sensor that's on top of the pump assembly. that actually fixed the problem, I turned the light off and it never came back on
now that I dropped the tank and put it back, the same code threw again... today over my break I tried popping the sensor out and reseating it and making sure the plug was seated all the way. cleared the light again and after a few ignition cycles the light threw on again, same code again, P0452...
I know for sure I hooked up the vent hose on the front of the tank when I put it back in, all the lines are hooked up and tight and not leaking gas, I don't smell any gas, I filled the tank all the way up after getting everything back together, no gas is leaking out or anything, so I'm not sure what the deal is... also changed the vent solenoid when I changed the pressure sensor because a code was throwing for it too, but it hasn't been giving me any issues either... and yes the gas cap is seated good, before anyone asks...
possible that the pump gasket I installed is faulty? could I have popped a line loose somewhere else on accident while I was fooling around under there?
Last edited by blazen_red_4x4; 07-15-2014 at 02:47 PM.
#15
The rubber seal for the fuel tank pressure sensor is one time use only. When a new seal is installed, if the sensor is removed, the seal needs replacement, (same applies to the MAP sensor seal).
All EVAP DTC's rely on constant and accurate data from the level sender and the pressure sensor. Fuel level must be between 15% and 85% or the EVAP monitor will not run. The pressure sensor data is used to determine if the vacuum decays too rapidly while the monitor is running.
Here is the flow chart for P0452, pay special attention to the "DIAGNOSTIC AIDS" section. https://blazerforum.com/forum/diagno...plained-35142/
All EVAP DTC's rely on constant and accurate data from the level sender and the pressure sensor. Fuel level must be between 15% and 85% or the EVAP monitor will not run. The pressure sensor data is used to determine if the vacuum decays too rapidly while the monitor is running.
Here is the flow chart for P0452, pay special attention to the "DIAGNOSTIC AIDS" section. https://blazerforum.com/forum/diagno...plained-35142/
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