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Odd rear glass gremlin?

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Old Jan 2, 2020 | 04:11 PM
  #11  
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There are three fuses that provide power for the power door lock system. Mir/Lck fuse 7 3A in the underhood fuse block is the power source for the liftgate button in question. This fuse should be OK because the other switches that it powers are working. Power leaves this fuse on an orange wire and goes to the body relay block which is behind the dash on the left side near the I/P fuse block. There it splits into 3 orange wires that power the driver lock switch, the passenger lock switch and the liftgate switch/button. You have lost power somewhere between this connector/splitter in the dash and the liftgate button in the tailgate. The orange power wire between the 2 points is a straight shot.

George
 
Old Jan 3, 2020 | 11:50 AM
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Straight shot meaning no further connectors or splices.

George
 
Old Jan 3, 2020 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeLG
Straight shot meaning no further connectors or splices.

George
Got it, understand.
I'll be looking into it tomorrow......I did have the under dash wire harness "block" disconnected when I removed the dash, I'm sure thats where the culprit is.
I'll update you when its fixed,.

Thanks for your help, this is a great community.
 
Old Jan 3, 2020 | 12:02 PM
  #14  
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Wiring connectors are one of the highest failure mechanisms in a vehicle. That, design flexibility, weight reduction and reduced copper wire costs were the reasons why serial communications protocols like CAN and J1850 were developed in the 80's. The company that I retired from developed the J1850 chip with Chrysler.

Just in case your head is not completely filled with random facts of limited value. LOL.

George
 
Old Jan 7, 2020 | 05:20 PM
  #15  
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I'll update when I finally get time to get this fixed.
 
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