Hey guys, I finally got rid of my other system as it was a little too bulky and had a bit too much power also. I took the cash I got out of that system and put it into a more modest system that is 1 powerful 10 inch sub instead of 2 12s that I used to have. This 10 is pushing near 400 rms instead of 2 12s pushing 600 rms. But to get off this slight tangent, I bought everything separately this time, the enclosure, sub, and amp. The point of this thread post is to ask what kind of hardware I should use to hold the sub in the enclosure. Drywall screws, deck screws, tee nuts, etc? What would an audio guru recommend for a guy wanting to put a sub in an enclosure for everyday listening?

 

The simplest and best thing to use if you're not going to be taking the sub out and putting it back in over and over again are #10 Pan Head screws.

Like these... SCREWS

 

Is that what you use? And your link isn't working for me for some reason.

 

I have improved my high resolution home system by swapping the steel 10x32 pan screws for brass screws . Most guys dont take it that far in the car. All most want is to rattle the mirror and get the gfs' hair to fly around just check youtube. Another tip is to remount the driver with rope caulk (plumbers putty).

 

I'll try again on the LINK, sometimes there's just no luck, lol. Basically any of the larger screws on that page are great for woofers, the smaller ones are great for mids, tweets, etc.

It depends on what I'm doing as to the type of screw I use. For mids and woofers that aren't going to be put in and taken out over and over and over again these screws work great. I'll be using these kinds of screws on the 10's in the box I'm building for my Jimmy. If it's something like a test enclosure where whatever is getting mounted is being installed and removed constantly, or for someone who's competing and having to pull subs a lot, things of that nature, the best way to go is a T-Nut or Hurricane Nut so that the hole isn't getting worn out with the screws.



Yeah, the Brass screws are taking it a bit far for almost any car audio installation. It's far too difficult to get speakers aimed, time aligned, EQ'd and otherwise utilized correctly to even notice any difference like that in a car. Let alone all the background noise while driving.

The tip on the caulk is a great one though. Anything to help seal and decouple the driver from the baffle is always good. Parts Express makes a speaker sealing caulk just for that purpose and foam gasket tape. I've used both and had great results with them.