Well… the shop took a warming 4 hours to attempt to align the blazer this morning. They adjusted some stuff but couldn’t get it back in spec with how the T bars are currently. It worked out because I ended up not having to pay anything for there time which was nice. I asked about my cv and my mechanic thinks it’s leaking from the end of the boot as he didn’t see any rips or tears either. Pics attached of the alignment numbers, drove it home and it does drive better but you can definitely tell the steering is very loose because I have no caster. Called rc and they told me 275usd for the upper control arms. The guy on the phone also said something about if I don’t get the new keys too I won’t have any front suspension movement anymore and it won’t drive good at all??

 

I didn't install the keys with my lift... you won't get the full 2.5 lift thats all

Edit: Might also ride a little stiffer... my suspension was shot when I put the lift in so I can't compare lol

Edit #2: action car and truck accessories deals with rc, you won't have to pay border fees or shipping if you go through them, if you have one near you lol... maybe call truck accessories stores around you if you don't, you do save some money in the end rather then going straight to rc

Edit#3: I paid 316$cnd for the front and rear nitro3 shocks and 4 boots from them... last edit I sweat😅

 

Okay right on, I’m really thinking of getting the upper control arms then fabbing a diff drop to get everything back into factory spec. Was just worried with what that guy said about having no front suspension movement if I don’t get the keys. My mechanic said to me today “This thing is great for the trails man but it’s not so great for driving out to the university everyday on the highway, I’m not trying to be mean or anything but that’s just the way it is”.

 

He's kinda right lol... its not a cheap commute vehicle the way gas prices are lol... but to fill the tank and hit the trails, it's a blast!! Lol

So don't forget the wedges with the drop bracket on the front diff... I gotta go back to my mechanic for him to see what he can do... I want to drop it a little more then the rc drop kit... I want to see if I can get another half inch to inch, depending on clearance and stuff lol...

 

Yeah I suppose he is, I think he was also meaning about how it’s not in factory alignment spec anymore. I haven’t really looked into the diff bracket yet but thanks for the tip, I plan to pretty much copy the rc one into solidworks and make it based off that. Okay so I just drove around and figured something out that’s been making my brain wonder the past few days. Everytime I turn and hit a bump I can feel something is hitting on the driver side I can feel the vibrations in my feet. Was driving me crazy I kept looking for stuff that would hit and couldn’t find anything. Until I noticed the bump stops. Driver side looks brand new and the passenger side is all rotted out. So I’m putting my money on that bump stop keeps hitting. Has anyone else experienced this? I think this is probably what the rc guy was talking about.


edit - After thinking about bump stops some more it just doesn’t make sense how the bump stop would be causing me problems now after cranking the T bars making the distance between the bump stop and lower control arm greater. I will have to keep searching for what’s clunking, I also now see what you mean about the diff wedges Don

 

Nice work! I have a 2005 2 dr in black that I just picked up. Where did you find the skid plates? I am going to put this unit in my shop over the winter and work on it.

 

Thanks! Got them all off eBay.com. Be sure to be searching on the usa site because I couldn’t find any on the Canadian site.
95-05 Chevy S10 Aluminum Transfer Case Skid Plate/Shield p# 15983978
95-05 S10 Pickup / Blazer, GMC Sonoma / Jimmy Oil Pan Skid Plate p# 15978173
95-04 S10, Blazer, Sonoma, Jimmy, 96-01 Bravada Metal Skid Plate p# 15697740
Hopefully that helps.

 

Be sure to make sure you get the proper transfer case skid plate, as the three button and 4 button auto are different. There is a thread on here about them and the differences

Have you found the clunking yet?

 

Thanks for the quick reply and info! Much appreciated Very interested to watch your build.

 

No clunking found yet. I admit I am kind of at a loss. I thought it could be the driver side motor mount then checked it by taking a video of the engine while I would give it some gas. The engine lifts up from the driver side. It looks more like normal engine movement rather than motor mount is done. I will upload the video and maybe you can have a look at it and tell me what you think.