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"Mine has gone across scales at about the same weight. 3X the trucks weight has got to be able to get me out of just about anything." Or start pulling stuff off!
Man, don't say that! Lol I can just see it tearing the frame out!
So, finally getting around to replacing my leaky front axle seals.
Got it all torn down, access isn't too bad with the diff in the truck
But, I ran into a little snag. I ordered the wrong seal from rock auto.
Left us what I removed, right is the new one. It fits snugly in the cover, but it doesn't have the metal lip like the factory one. It might work fine, but I'm gonna order the same kind to go back in with. I don't want to have to do this job again.
I'll have my buddy wire it up for dash control. I always hate messing with winch remotes, they always end up in the mud, closed in the door, or ran over. Plus, the drivers seat is probably one of the safer places to be during winching operations. I'll still be able to use my remote, though. Both wired and wireless.
Soon you'll have to make a dash for your switches! Got one for everything!
I'm running out of room lol.
Got two for the 4wd, one by the headlights for the dual battery control, and room for seven under the radio. With the addition of the two winch switches, I'll still have one spot left for another there.
If you have access to it, I was wondering what the differences were between the short stub axle (driver side) bearing diameters of the old style flange axle and the slide in new style. You've shown that the passenger sides interchange but I'm thinking that the driver side will be different.
Eshaw, I'll get a measurement for the flange style driver side stub shaft in the next couple days. Didn't get a chance to get the seal and finish up yesterday. Got called in to work at 430am, didn't get home till about 10pm.
Went out for a few minutes today. My buddy gave me his old group 24 battery, since mine was dead, and he's planning on dual optimas in his 4runner. The group 24 fits, but it's a tight squeeze lol.