Well, I for one hope that the axle shaft swaps for you, then I'll know also. I'd like to be able to swap the earlier shafts to a later differential so this will answer that question.

 

I found a thread on some S10 forum claiming it'll work, but you know how that goes. I'm gonna try to get out to the garage later tonight and swap it out.

 

Im interested in if this works as well. My 96 has the flange type cv. I'm still debating the sas. Ive found a first gen s10 pickup, sas, tbi 350 for $1600 that i am thinking of buying for parts.

 

Nice haul!

The seat swap must not have been too bad. It literally unbolted and then rebolted to the s10 seat rails? I think in the 98+, there might be some more to it... I'll have to experiment next weekend.

 

Yes. The cavilier seats literally bolted to the S10 seat rails, with bolted in directly to the studs on the floor board of my truck. Now, the S10 was a 95-97, as is my truck. I think on the 98+ trucks, you have to drill a hole, in the cavilier seats I believe, but it's still a very simple swap, from what I've read.

They're pretty comfy, I didn't notice them sitting any lower than the stock seats, and I really like the side bolsters so far.



Bravada shaft swap is 90% completed. I know @eshaw wanted me to do a write up, but it's super simple! Basically remove old cv, axle shaft and tube, and install bravada shaft and tube. I'm not a fan of the slip in cv axles at all, I don't really like having to beat on them with a hammer to make sure they're seated. Much prefer the six bolt flange. But, I hated the axle disconnect more than I liked the flange, so here we are.

Everything seemed to fit fine. I'm letting my sealant set up overnight, I'll fill it up and check for leaks in the morning, as well as finish putting the brakes, etc back together.

 

The slide in axles as with most things new and improved isn't that much of a improvement ....

 

Agreed! Sometimes the engineers are too smart for their own good! Lol

 

Well, got it all back together, filled up the diff, and drove around the block. No signs of leaks yet, everything seems to be working fine. Think it was a success.

There's some more bravadas in the yards around me, thinking I might go grab all of them, if there's enough interest here to sell them

 

Well, now that the diff actually has oil in it again, I'm reminded of how bad the driver side is leaking lol. New bravada shaft seems to be fine, though. I'll be ordering a bearing and seal for driverside soon, might as well do the new tube, also

 

Maybe what I had read pertained to the driver side stub shaft needing the spacer sweated on to the bearing surface. This is going to bug me now! cleburne red; when you pull that stub shaft on the driver side see if you can get a diameter measurement for the bearing surface. I'm starting to think now that the later models have a different bearing diameter on the driver side versus the flanged units. I'm thinking that the inner diameter of the bearing on that side may be bigger than the one that's used on the flanged units.