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Removing the Emissions pump entirely, i never much liked the idea of having a major failure point that near to a vital part of the motor and its electronics, and it will be a hell of a lot cheaper since the pump was destroyed when the valve blew out. those are blockoff plates for the spots where the valves and feedpipes would mount to them.
Turns out the Main engine harnesses on these trucks use more like 1 to 1 1/4" splitloom instead of the 3/4" i ordered, oof.
So thats on hold, did get the fire extinguisher, 5lbs Amerex Class A,B,C, right into the back of the truck it went, got an idea floating around for a T handle/duel disch. fire supression system with a Crank sensor cutoff....
Pulled the loom apart, what a mess, but there is a silver lining -
a ****in mess
Not a single burnt through, damaged, or brittle wire in the loom around the point of the fire. Got really lucky on this one, blockoff plates will be here in a few weeks and i can put her back on the road.
Got the blockoff plates, the kit i linked from jegs WILL NOT WORK - as i read a bit more into it and found out its for a moped so dont even try, got a machine shop to make these, Really good place up in Brandon called Tampa Welding & Machine works if any of you are in florida.
Now i have a separate issue that i cannot verify will even occur yet. Will i have a check engine light from this and how do i fool or otherwise program the PCM into thinking the pump is still there or never was there to begin with?
Got battery Cables, noticed the starter lead eyelets are different, OE has a locating tab and the new Delco replacements have this type of eyelet,
blockoff plates installed and probably overtorqued to 25lb/ft, as there are alot of wires and sensitive parts near those holes, i wish it was easier to remove the manifolds without an air impact as i would just replace them with a Federal emissions set.
Annnd she's back, a Rubber mallet and a 24 inch prybar are very specialized alternator installation tools it seems. Runs like a Top, sounds like it has a turbo since the smog pump is open-ending infront of the truck. it did throw a code after a little bit, but only after getting gas and i dont think the PCM has a way of detecting if the pump is actually pumping air into the manifolds, i know that fuelcap no longer tightens correctly but with no way to pull codes im just going to retighten it and hope for the best.
Smooth as glass, no more rubber burning smell at high speeds (should have been my tipoff to that valve leaking), Runs like an absolute top, just a little weird on cold crank though.
Got the lower hinge after.... 5 months? since i got the upper, both are going to need a bit of bending to get the tolerences in check, there is atleast a half inch of movement up/down in the lower and about a 1/4" in the upper, need to bend the body side of the lower in and the door side of the upper.
