Yes, and andorid unit is what I would recommend as well as there are already apps out there for it. On top of that, its very user friendly and can be personalized to fit your needs too.

No problem helping out more if you go that route, Tajohns34 and I both have the same unit if I recall so I would also speak good things about the unit too.

 

Ok so for my update, so during summer, I had been working on fixing the hole in the back and doing rust prevention so below are the finishing pictures of the project.

Had to grind out the rust in one fender, and bondo back the shape (which it had been done once before in its life). From there applied the same rust stopper I had used on the hitch and tow points minus the rubberized top coat which I've used in other projects under paint and primer with great success










On day 2, I sanded the primer and got ready to paint







And here she is finished and cleaned up for more years of service


At this point this is where I hoped to drive the car for at least another 3 years until December happened...

 

So December,

On my annual trip back home for Christmas, about 20 miles from home the transmission started to scream under acceleration. Now at the time I thought it was a belt since belt replacement was on my todo list over the Christmas holiday since it had been starting to squeal and it was time to replace anyway, but it wasn't until the day after Christmas when I was pulling her into the garage that I could hear the sound coming from under the car. So I went over to a guy I know down the road, and best he could figure was a trans bearing of some kind starting to go.

With the amount of travel that I had coming up on the calendar I couldn't risk it and I had to unfortunately make the decision to sell Road Warrior over the holiday. At this point I had put too much money into it fixing mechanical things and I didn't have a place to just keep it and work on it on the side with spare funds. And when someone makes a cash offer of $2500 on it, I couldn't pass up the chance to move on.

One of my last photos of Road Warrior


I miss Road Warrior, its been a wonderful 6 and a half years of working on and driving. Making long short notice trips and braving the worst of the worst in terms of elements, its been a blast. And if it wasn't for this awesome community, I wouldn't have been able to fix half the stuff I did on it, the knowledge base here is top notch and the community has been wonderful.

I will still be around the community as I love reading the stories everyone has on here, and I really do see myself owning another one, if nothing else, to tinker with when I am better off with a place to actually keep it. So please feel free to continue to ask about the things I did with Road Warrior, I have no problem helping out and sharing the knowledge I have from my time with this car.

My replacement vehicle is a 2013 Ford Escape with the 1.6 Ecoboost engine in it and 4wd. Got it for a steal and I do enjoy it, in particular the gas mileage is a huge bonus especially on the highway.

Here's Alice


I'll be documenting my adventures with her over on 2013 / 2014 / 2015 / 2016 / 2017 Ford Escape Forum for the sake of keeping this forum blazer/jimmy related. Under the same username.


So this concludes the Road Warrior build. I will leave this open though so questions can still be exchanged over the work I did on it.

 

tenorsaxdude

Yours is the only post I've read so far regarding the back window - but not "how to replace the actuator." I am hoping your experience and understanding of this latch may be of help in fixing mine. I had a habit of leaning on the TG to move things around with the window open - often pushing the button multiple times.

On fine day I pushed a couple of tires in too tight when I closed the tailgate. Window clicked shut just as always but now it's like a Chinese puzzle to open. I removed the two tires (through the back seat) and moved everything else that was touching away from the TG too. I can hear the actuator humming when I push the button but no "click." I even did it while pushing steady on the TG like I was trying to make sure it was shut. I found a very old post on BF I call the "Emergency Window Pop" method here: https://blazerforum.com/forum/articl...ailgate-35041/ . This method is about opening the window despite a broken blue actuator connector. Basically, it involves moving the little triangular arm [attached to the actuator by the blue & green plastic parts] up and to the left while laying face down facing the TG from inside.

Before I started hacking on my truck I went out to my favorite salvage yard to test my comprehension of this "least invasive" method. I found a two door and a four door with broke out rear windows to operate on. My plan was to recover the blue actuator connector while gaining an understanding of the "big picture" inside the TG. I managed to get to the little blue "culprit" on both but could not disengage it from the green plastic portion of the actuator. I had to remove them by chopping the green piece. Even loose [in my hands] I am not twisting them correctly to "unlock" them. Once I got a better idea of how to remove the blue part without destroying the green one I planned to operate on my patient. I found two more and tried the "Emergency Window Pop" method from inside. I did it twice at the yard very quickly but at home I could hear the actuator humming when I moved the lever but no "click." That was almost two months ago.

Clearly, I do not have an understanding of the "big picture" inside the TG. I actually learned only two things:
1. As long as the window is locked closed; the TG cannot open - even with extreme force from inside.
2. A broken glass allows all regular access to using a working TG.

Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.