Looks Great!

 

Engine oil should be fine for a short term pre-lube. Long term should use some sort of assembly paste that doesnt run off over time. You're planning to prime the engine oil before firing, right? Its a long way through that remote oil filter and cooler in the radiator when its completely dry.

Rockers are not adjustable, so you just put them on and torque the bolt to spec.

 

Just a FYI. Small Block Chevy (+ 4.3 V6) oil pump priming tools. Tools on SBC need to have the sleeve that fits down where the distributor goes. This completes an oil passage and allows oiling of 1/2 of the lifters and allows the system to reach full pressure. Cap on top of tool clamps under a regular distributor hold down clamp and prevents junk from falling into your engine (drill brush particles, shavings of shaft turning in drill chuck) when the drill motor and drill chuck spins above the hole (so do fasten it down securely and blow it off good before opening back up - you'll be surprised how much junk collects on top of it). Priming extensively with no intake on and this stuff falling in is how I ruined my original rebuilt motor way back in 2014. Depending on your drill, you may or may not have trouble with clearance with the engine in, but your lift seems to help with that.

I think the CTA is pretty much exactly the same as the Moroso and Milodon.

 

Thanks for the compliments, you guys!! Thanks Les, I followed that and installed the new pushrods and old rockers, also put the valve covers on. Now I would put the intake back on now as well but I've had some change of heart after getting my engine back together this far, I was originally going to leave it not painted but I feel now that it will be the only thing that's not painted on my engine! So I think I will go spray it with aluminum today and put it on tomorrow. I will also put the headers on today or tomorrow as well. Now, thanks for clarifying about the oil pump priming Les I just have a few questions, how would it work with priming with the engine out still, especially with the oil cooler lines? And, what do you think about doing a compression test with the engine still out? Once I prime the oil pump would it be ok to set it up and connect the starter?

 

Regarding reinstalling the intake manifold, a trick that can help keep it aligned is to temporarily install some threaded rods to act as guide pins. This will be less important when the engine is on the stand. I wish I had thought of it when I reinstalled mine with the engine still in the truck.

And this is something I should have thought to do as the old 289/302 Fords had threaded rods instead of bolts for their intakes and these really helped with getting the intake in place the first time.

 

Absolutely paint that intake!

Can't prime oil without the oil cooler lines, oil filter, and radiator attached to complete the oil passages. Better to do that with the engine in the vehicle.

Compression test might show a little low with engine cold, lifters collapsed, and no fresh oil on piston rings. But if you just want to verify compression, I don't see why you couldn't connect the starter and do a quick check before it goes back in.

Remember to put the engine in without the passenger side exhaust manifold in place. Then you have a good way to get the starter in (from the front) and the exhaust manifold doesn't hit the A/C evaporator case when the engine goes in. But maybe your lift takes care of that problem?

 

Thanks for the clarification Les, I really wish I saw your edited post before just now lol because I already put both headers back on. Would it be fine to reuse the gaskets if I take the passenger header off again? I still need to put the intake manifold back on, but once I do that I'll hang it up and connect the starter so I can do a compression test. I just want to confirm it will be fine to compression test before I prime the oil pump since I shouldn't prime the pump until it's back in the truck? Thanks for this Christine, I think I will just cut off the heads of a few of the old intake bolts and thread them in to help with the alignment. Also, I remember taking the tranny cooler lines out of the tranny was near impossible with the engine in there, I was lucky and had the passenger side head off so I could reach down from the top with a pick and free them. Is it possible to have the tranny lines already in the tranny before I put the engine back in?

 

You should be OK to compression test a bit before priming the oil and to re-use that exhaust manifold gasket. Yes, on the trans lines. Just remember to fasten them to the oil pan later.

Looks good!

 

Sounds good Les, I realized I made a bonehead move and had to take the passenger exhaust off anyway because I didn't put the dipstick in first! Got the intake back on and should be good to go. I'm looking to do the compression test today hopefully but I'm just a bit confused about if I should fill it up with oil or not? It would be pretty much pointless as I don't have the lines and filter connected right?

 

Correct! Looking good! Plus distributor needs to be in to drive the oil pump.