Thanks a bunch, Les. I noticed the seal may be a bit over-spec after I had done a few and I was looking at the intake valves versus the lapped exhaust. I put all the valve springs back in today and checked the height differences, pictures attached of both heads but I think it looks good! I also cleaned out all the lifters, much easier than I thought it would be. There's just one problem with the lifter from cylinder 6 exhaust, I had this one separate from the rest when they got mixed up so I know for sure where it came from. But it just feels like the roller is loose, I spin the roller with my finger and it just keeps spinning for much longer than all the other lifters, no pitting or markings on the roller though. Any ideas about this? Also, what's the best way to install the valve stem seals? I see in the manual it says there should be a 1-2mm gap between the bottom of the seal and valve guide, I'm thinking I could use a socket the size of the seal to tap them on until they are in spec?

 

Hi! Maybe put 1 lifter in. Wasn't that the one that had the bent push rod? What about the rocker? Any difference on that one? Anything there in valvetrain could get damaged when valve hit piston and bent pushrod.

If no light under that straight edge then valves are not sunken. Seems good to me.

I use a deep socket with deep broach inside to install the seals like you said. Don't forget to use the protector sleeve and wipe a film of oil on the valve stem.

Good work!

 

Thanks Les. Okay, so I put all of the valve stem seals in and got both heads ready to put back on the block. I also ran into some issues getting the rear main seal housing however I finally got it yesterday and just installed it this morning so I can finally move on! I hung the block from my garage rafters using three 2x6s screwed together going over 2 of the trusses, it worked well the biggest problem was getting the engine stand fully hanging. In the end, I just put the stand up on 2x4's then tightened the cable all the way and took the 2x4's out so it was just barely hanging off the ground. After some time scraping the old gasket off the block, I just decided to use a 3M disk on my die grinder, which sped things up a lot, I have the deck and crankshaft area all taped off so nothing should have got in during that. Installed the new housing with the sleeve that came on the other rear main seal in my engine gasket kit, the new housing didn't come with the plastic sleeve for some reason but once I got the sleeve on I just gave it a nice push on and torqued it down, of course not oiling any of the surfaces. Also, I oiled that lifter that was feeling a bit weird and left it for a while then came back and tried spinning the roller again, it spins just the same as all the others now. Now guys, I'm feeling pretty much ready to put the heads and oil pan back on, I just want to have everything inside as clean as possible before I do that. What would be the best way to get all the debris out of the block that could have gotten in while the engine has been open all this time?

 

Good work! Don't think you have to worry about anything inside, as careful as you have been with not getting stuff inside. Just change the oil after a week or so of driving and forget it.

Heads have been thoroughly pressure washed inside and out before assembly? If so slap that pan and those heads on!

 

If your new head bolts have sealer pre-painted in the threads then you can use them as-is. If not you need to coat the threads with liquid teflon sealer before install. No painting of head gaskets with anything unless instructed by the gasket manufacturer. No oiling of bolts because that will prevent the sealer from working correctly, and a lot of head bolts go into the water jacket around the cylinders. Torque to manual-indicated initial torque in correct sequence and then finish off with angle gauge. This gets the head bolt stretch correct distance and eliminates errors due to friction while tightening.

 

Okay sounds good thanks, Les! I pressure washed both heads they are all ready to go. I also put the upper plenum back on the lower intake last night and got the intake manifold all ready to install. I'll go out today and get an angle gauge so I can install the heads, also check to see if the new bolts have sealer on them. I think I will install the oil pan first though hopefully later today, looking at how many seals I have left in my engine gasket kit, I am a bit confused. I have two gaskets that look like they are for the oil filter adapter, I can only see them using the one with a square-shaped middle in the manual, and I have the other style still in the block, so what gaskets are used when I install the oil filter adapter to the block? Also, the first seal from the right is for the pcv or brake booster on the intake? The seal two in from the right is the oil drain plug seal I think, and to the right of the oil filter adapter gasket is the seal for the oil filter adapter, however, if you guys could help me out with any of the other seals and that white plastic tube that would be very appreciated!

 

White plastic tube should be for the connection between the oil pump drive shaft and the oil pump. If you never took the oil pump loose, then the old one should still be in place. No need to change it,

I would use the same style oil filter adapter gasket that was in there originally. Careful this is very clean and to not get any junk in the path of the oil. Probably the other one is for a 2WD that does not have a remote oil fllter adapter. Others I really can't tell unless they are for the two fuel line fittings at the rear of the intake manifold next to the distiributor.

Anyone else on the seal IDs??

 

Thanks for the clarification, Les! I have got a lot done in the last few days, putting on the oil pan was a bit greasy because I had the sealant on and I would go put the pan on with the gasket but the gasket kept falling down then it wouldn't seat right when I put the pan down. I ended up putting a small tack of sealant on the gasket in some places to hold it in place while I put it on. Got both of the heads installed too, the bolts came already coated with sealant. Also got the water pump installed, put thread sealant on the bolts before the installation. Now, I wanted to install the rockers but got a bit confused looking at the manual, it was a Chilton one I already had printed from when I took them out. Looking at it now I think it makes sense but I just want to confirm, I put on the rockers and start them finger tight in the sequence then rotate the engine to cylinder 1 TDC which is both of the alignment marks lined up then finally torque them all down? One more thing, I saw in the manual it said to use engine pre lube on the lifter rollers before putting them in, I of course do not have engine pre lube and used just engine oil, I assume this is fine but I just want to make sure? I see it says to use the pre lube again on the rockers.

 

Looking good!!!!

 

Nice looking engine