ABS & ParkingBrake light problem????
#41
It's not that I do not believe you. It is just different from what I remember which is probably flawed! LOL
#42
Here is a pic. I am sure you believe me I just want to be as clear as possible for everyone.
#43
Mine is the same way..it's the ! and P in the same red light. I assumed it was the parking brake light as looking at that diagram you posted I don't see any other brake related lights...Either way, it turned off when the ABS module was replaced, and came back on as soon as I pulled the fuse.
#44
Aren't the Abs sensors a part of the wheel bearings? If so in order to replace the sensors wouldn't you have to replace the bearings as a whole?
#45
Good question...I'm not sure. I think I need a new wheel speed sensor too, the other mechanic there (who knows just about anything about GM's lol) said I'd probably need one of those too if it's not the ABS sensor.
#46
The sensors are bolted to the outside of the wheel bearing and can be cleaned or replaced without replacing the whole bearing assembly.
The first thing you should do is disconnect the electrical connection to the WSS and attach a DMM set to mV-AC. This can be done with a jack and jack stand without removing anything else. When you spin the wheel, you need at least 250mV-AC as stated earlier in this thread.
If you get a value lower than this, you can tighten up the air gap between the sensor and the reluctor ring in the wheel bearing assembly by using a flat file to file down the surface the WSS mounts to on the wheel bearing. Depending on how low the reading, you may not need to adjust it much.
When you have the WSS out, take a look at the reluctor ring inside. It is a square toothed ring and should be clean. If there is buildup in the teeth, this can cause inaccurate readings.
The first thing you should do is disconnect the electrical connection to the WSS and attach a DMM set to mV-AC. This can be done with a jack and jack stand without removing anything else. When you spin the wheel, you need at least 250mV-AC as stated earlier in this thread.
If you get a value lower than this, you can tighten up the air gap between the sensor and the reluctor ring in the wheel bearing assembly by using a flat file to file down the surface the WSS mounts to on the wheel bearing. Depending on how low the reading, you may not need to adjust it much.
When you have the WSS out, take a look at the reluctor ring inside. It is a square toothed ring and should be clean. If there is buildup in the teeth, this can cause inaccurate readings.
#47
I am just going to bring it to you I am done dealing with it.
#48
LOL That is always an option! In your case, I am only an hour away.
Saturday is pretty booked though. Internment ceremony in the morning for a past chief of my fire department and then pulling parts for my K5 in the afternoon. Might be able to look at it later in the after noon though.
Saturday is pretty booked though. Internment ceremony in the morning for a past chief of my fire department and then pulling parts for my K5 in the afternoon. Might be able to look at it later in the after noon though.
#49
Is the WSS the only wire coming off of the bearing assy? Do I check the voltage at the end that connects to the bearing assy or the end that plugs into the harness?
#50
I have a question... If I don't have the extra cash right now to pay for the repairs, nor the knowledge to fix it myself, do the lights simply unplug? I had my cluster out the other day but I didn't crack it open.. I realize it's illegal to unplug bulbs as such when selling it, but if I'm just tired of looking at them, it's not illegal correct?