DONT FORGET THE FRONT VENT..either disconnect it at the frame side or just cut the tubing at 1 inch from clamp.
{ I forgot and dropped the tank with it still connected and broke the vent nipple.

At any rate,now I had the tank out, I saw the pump was the original. The lock ring was nothing but a cluster of rust. So another trip. Checked the parts stores, they dont have either the ACDelco {P/n TR 14} or the Dorman equiv.
To the dealer.. $26 for the ring
To the Hobby Lobby store 5/32" brass tube, package of three for $3.99.
- I'd checked the vent nipple ID with drill bits. 9/64 passed, 5/32 wouldnt, so 5/32" is what I wanted.
The first thing to do was test the stuff I wanted to use for crack sealer. I've never had much luck with epoxies on plastics, especially slick plastics that would flex, as this nipple surely would. The idea was to smear a thin layer of Plumber's Goop (TM) and let it dry while I was tending to removing the pump.
I cleaned an area on the vent valve and primed it with the standard purple plumbing primer. It's rated for PVC and ABS but I'd used it to remount mirrors with standard gel superglue and it seemed to work fine.

Then started on getting the fuel pump ring loose. The secret is to clear the rust out of the intersecting points of the ring and tabs that are molded into the tank. To do that I used an old screwdriver and hammer at a 45 deg angle. The caked rust will fall off as you tap it but it's tedious and you dont want to destroy the tabs. Once I could see the actual lines where the tabs come trough, I tapped firmly down on the ring next to tabs.
Then tapped the ring around until there was pressure on the plastic 'keeper' flip the keeper out and it's easy.
Now I got out my compressor and blew away all the rust and debris. Else use a shop vac or steel brush with vacuum cleaner.
...
I put the new pump and lock ring in immediately and started on the vent nipple fix.
I scratched the test spot and saw the Goop adhered pretty well. I put a few drops of gasoline on it and found it held up well, just got a little slick on the surface.

Then I marked the 5/32 bit for penetration and made one pass through the nipple, keeping the drill running as I withdrew it. Only took out a thin shaving.


I drilled the length of the passage but realized later it would have been better to stop just a little past the crack so the tubing would have sealed even better.
Then I primed and, while lifting nipple a little, sealed the area just around the crack using the Plumber's Goop.

I marked the 5/32 tubing for the full length of the nipple passage, cut and deburred then tapped it in till it was even with the end.

Click image to enlarge