Is it Just me or does everyone get hit by the 'No Simplicity' law when turning wrenches? I swear the simplest things seem to end up being the biggest pains. I Finally chased down the parts for the front end. In comparison the inner tie rod ends were just as tight as brand new ones so I kept those but needed to change the pitman arm, idler arm, and both outer tie rod ends. That still shouldn't have been more than a full day. (Two since I broke it down late in the afternoon on day one with the exception of pulling the power steering gear box.) Not only was there a fail to get the pitman arm transferred which cost me more time and money to go chase it down, but that one bolt for the gear box broke and I had to replace it. Then while putting it back on we were fighting to get all three to line up and it occurred to me what the problem was. I had to pull it back off and hold it aside while I ran a drill bit through the hole to clean out the dirt and rust to give it some wiggle room. Meanwhile the outer tie rod ends don't want to budge. I had to use my pick set to dig the crap out of the center connection, spread them slightly with a cold chisel and punch, and then soak them with P.B. Blaster. I'm hoping we don't get rained out tomorrow and I can actually get the rest of it back together.

Oh, I almost forgot that the first idler arm came with a defunct grease zerk or hole because it didn't tighten but just spun instead. I had to make another trip into town to swap it. However, they at least had it at the parts store closest to me, And while I was looking at the receipt to swap it I realized that they had over charged me at the second store yesterday when they were returning and re-ringing the sale to credit my AutoZone rewards card so I at least got an eight dollar refund.

 

Sounds like you might be better off rebuilding. If you do something that cost you more every day it will likely cost you more in the long run. Good luck with it.

 

I'm so disgusted with both Advance Auto and Autozone that I won't go there anymore unless I absolutely have to. So many of their parts are defective, misboxed, or just plain chinese garbage that can't even make it a year. I've had much better luck at NAPA. I don't mind spending a bit more for parts if they last. NAPA's not immune from the chinese crap either, but it's 10x better than those other chain stores.

Yeah, fantastic design on that pitman arm location, aye? Couldn't have got the thing any closer to the crossmember.
I unbolted the box and slid it forward on the last one I did on these S-series vehicles.

 

I'm installing a stereo in my truck today to replace the one already in there (it was bought aftermarket in 1987, still got all the paperwork) and I've run into a snag with the wiring.

I've been able to identify left front and right front, but the rest is a mystery to me. Any ideas?

 

I Usually have pretty good luck through AutoZone but they've got some new employees here lately that just don't seem to be up to par. I used to get things through Advance Auto years ago but after running into issues with employees not wanting to stand behind their lifetime warranty products I stopped.

Today was par for course. We didn't get rained out but things just couldn't be easy. It was a major fight but we did manage to screw out one of the old outer tie rod ends. However, the new ones have a longer threaded portion of the shank and before I could screw it in as far as it needed to be it hit the old rusted threads in the adjuster and it became almost impossible to turn. Then I looked and realized it was actually screwing up the threads on the new tie rod end. I decided to cut the adjusters off of the inner tie rod ends which were still good and buy new adjusters. (Not before turning out the damaged tie rod end though so it would clean up the threads)

I made the mistake of Thinking, 'It should go together without a problem now.' Nope. I volunteer the engineer who decided the inner tie rod end should have a crimp style locking nut but absolutely No Way to keep the stud from spinning while you tighten it for the cage match.

I guess it would have been too easy to put a squared shank on the end or an Allen head inset or Something. No. I had to make yet another trip to town to buy a regular nut so I could use it to seat the tie rod ends. It will go into an envelope marked 'Inner Tie Rod End Seating Nut' which will then be kept in his Blazer.

I could have gotten it done tonight by flashlight but my son was tired and complaining so I told him that He could finish it up tomorrow instead.

Never look a Gift Mechanic in the mouth, even if he is your dad.

 

I have to agree with you,I think I am going to rebuild the '99 ZR2 rear to a 3:42 ratio And replace the G-80 with a Tru_Trac. I did end up purchasing/pulling the front axle, today, the price was just too good to pass up ! Then when I have more time and money I am going to rebuild the ZR2 front axle and swap in the stock 3:42 gears and retain the hardened axle shafts. That should leave me with options in the future if I decide to change things up. Does anyone know the difference in weight between the front axles ? I think it is probably negligible ( 10 to 20 pounds ) compared to the added strength. I will swap them out after I add a V8.

 

Unfortunately I don't have a clue. I'll bet someone on here or out on the net could tell you though. I find Google searches come up with quite a few answers. Here lately I've been researching the requirements for transplanting a 460 into my '78 T-Bird in place of the 351m it has now. So far it's looking pretty feasible considering I'm getting a complete RV to pull it out of which will have the majority of parts I need. (failing the motor mounts/towers which might not work and possibly some of the accessory brackets depending on where they locate things)

I have great news though. I just saved a bundle by switching to Geico!

Just Kidding!

The Blazer front end is back together, greased, and on the ground. I'll probably take it for a test drive later today. I'm Praying the front end was the vibration I was feeling even though it didn't Seem like the front end. (It was weird but hard to describe)

 

[QUOTE=Ridge;671750]I'm installing a stereo in my truck today to replace the one already in there (it was bought aftermarket in 1987, still got all the paperwork) and I've run into a snag with the wiring.

I've been able to identify left front and right front, but the rest is a mystery to me. Any ideas?

I meant to reply to this before and wish you luck which is about all the help I am when it comes to stereo work. Other than that, try doing some Google searches. I find that turns up quite a few answers.

 

[QUOTE=Ridge;671750]I'm installing a stereo in my truck today to replace the one already in there (it was bought aftermarket in 1987, still got all the paperwork) and I've run into a snag with the wiring.

I've been able to identify left front and right front, but the rest is a mystery to me. Any ideas?


After a second thought I do have an idea if you haven't figured it out yet. You might see if you can get to your rear speakers and take a look at the wires. If you can get an eye on them you Might be able to identify them where they'd hook up to the stereo.

My son will likely run into the same issue on his 85 Blazer. I guess the other option would be to run completely new speaker wires to the back.

 

I've been able to identify left front and right front, but the rest is a mystery to me. Any ideas?


I just touched base with my son and he Thinks his wires are labeled. His stereo is out so he'll try to get out there at some point and get a picture of it for you if he can.