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General ChatChat about all things Blazer (and related vehicles). Off-topic stuff should be in the lounge, and all mechanical problems should be posted in the proper forum.
good job! ..........I hope you don't have open the hood till the next oil change ;-).....
I bet you'l notice a difference in performance and gas mileage......
Don, OH YES! These fixes I figure are once-in-a-lifetime or nearly such for this rig. It was a lot of work to do in a one car garage.
Looking closely at the old LIM gaskets, I think I can see where the lower part of the frame/carrier at the rear water passages was deformed and buckling upward. Who knows how long they would have lasted.
BTW, getting an in-lb torque wrench was definitely necessary.
I will be looking for any change in the mileage but I'll be happy with peace-of-mind with regard to the LIM gaskets, wear on the PS system, and the new synthetic oil.
First off, thanks to all who contributed info and such to my project. I'm happy to report that the job is 90% done. There is apparently a leak where the y pipe meets the header due to a missing hat bolt there. Will correct later this week. Also I was a dummy and forgot to order the intermediate pipe to install my new Thrush Welded muffler. Will get to that before the weekend. Can't wait to hear how it sounds.
I scoured this forum as well as you tube and the rest of the internet only to discover there was very little information concerning how to remove the exhaust on our Blazers.
I pretty much winged it and cane across the following issues:
1. You have to cut the exhaust about 2 inches past the cat in order to remove it completely because you are restricted from bringing the entire assembly back far enough by the frame cross member (not the one for the trans, it's removable).
2. You will need a bottle jack and some blocks to raise the trans up high enough to completely remove that cross member due to the bolt in the center of it.
3. The y-pipe-to-header nuts can be easily accessed and removed if you a) first spray them down with pb blaster and let them soak.
b) use a ratchet with a long extendable handle and an assortment of extensions from 4 inch to 16 inch lengths. And don't lose track of these nuts. They don't sell them at the store.
Thanks again and good night.
I'm also a sailor and we have a joke about all the hardware we drop overboard (that we never drop when the boats are on their trailers) is a sacrifice to King Neptune. LOL
Having owned a boat I know Exactly what you mean. Calm water doesn't seem to change a thing either.
First off, thanks to all who contributed info and such to my project. I'm happy to report that the job is 90% done. There is apparently a leak where the y pipe meets the header due to a missing hat bolt there. Will correct later this week. Also I was a dummy and forgot to order the intermediate pipe to install my new Thrush Welded muffler. Will get to that before the weekend. Can't wait to hear how it sounds.
I scoured this forum as well as you tube and the rest of the internet only to discover there was very little information concerning how to remove the exhaust on our Blazers.
I pretty much winged it and cane across the following issues:
1. You have to cut the exhaust about 2 inches past the cat in order to remove it completely because you are restricted from bringing the entire assembly back far enough by the frame cross member (not the one for the trans, it's removable).
2. You will need a bottle jack and some blocks to raise the trans up high enough to completely remove that cross member due to the bolt in the center of it.
3. The y-pipe-to-header nuts can be easily accessed and removed if you a) first spray them down with pb blaster and let them soak.
b) use a ratchet with a long extendable handle and an assortment of extensions from 4 inch to 16 inch lengths. And don't lose track of these nuts. They don't sell them at the store.
Thanks again and good night.
You might re-post your exhaust removal instructions with pictures (if you have them), appropriate key-words, and title as a more extensive post so that the next person who needs this advice can easily find it. I only suggest this as I've been so appreciative of those who did that and by doing so saved me many headaches by not having to "reinvent the wheel."
The petcock drain had no where to drip "cleanly" to the pan. Fluid was running all over the place, dripping and made a nasty mess
I have no idea how those are designed but I've made drain deflectors in the past using 2 liter bottles cut to form a funnel with a long and short side and then hose to run it out through the best gap to work with. Sure beats wasting good clean anti-freeze which is why I devised one right after filling one of my older T-Birds with new fluid and right before needing to drain it to change the timing chain and gears.
Dropped a upper fan shroud screw down into the engine depths. Christ help me, I never found it
If you ask me, I think vehicles sometimes just crave nuts and bolts and therefore suck them out of our hands never to be found again. Lord knows I've had more times than I can count over the years.
thanks for the 2 liter idea! Still need to flush the system, will definetly rock this.
I'm also a sailor and we have a joke about all the hardware we drop overboard (that we never drop when the boats are on their trailers) is a sacrifice to King Neptune. LOL
I don't know if it makes a difference from 2 door to 4 door or if Zr2 , But I pulled my exhaust because of a rounded O2 sensor and I didn't have to cut anything , I did have to move the cross member and the job was a pain in the butt, but no cutting involved.
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thanks for the 2 liter idea! Still need to flush the system, will definetly rock this.
You're more than welcome. Finding the right size hose is the key. The first one I made I had a piece of hose that fit over the end. The next time I needed it I couldn't find it so I made another one. That time I couldn't find a hose that fit over it but found one that fit snuggly inside of it.
I've never had to do it, but in theory, if a guy really needed to he could put a pvc elbow in it to get around obstacles. Just trim the bottle a bit at time so that you get the best fit you can.
11-04-2017, 07:42 PM
