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what have you gotten done on your blazer today?

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Old Sep 18, 2018 | 05:45 PM
  #12391  
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Originally Posted by Cimmerian
So I got my entire cooling system replaced with OEM AC Delco parts last week.. New intake, water pump, radiator, etc all that jazz... Now my truck is throwing a CEL and my oil pressure gauge is dropping to 0 at idle and doesn't go above 10 when I drive...

I paid $1000 for this truck and already dumped about $3000 into it over the past year. Am I fighting a losing battle here?
When you say "new intake", do you mean intake manifold gaskets? If they did that, they would have R&R'ed the distributor. The bottom of the distributor goes into the top of the oil pump driveshaft. If the distributor is not seated properly (happened to me), the oil pump might not work properly and the timing would be off, which may be the source of your code.

That's the the first place I would look, anyway...

Let us know!
 
Old Sep 18, 2018 | 07:18 PM
  #12392  
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Working on a set of zr2 flares for my 4 door. Been working on them since Saturday... ish... just under halfway done at this point.





 
Old Sep 18, 2018 | 07:26 PM
  #12393  
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DonL, what's your mounting solution?
 
Old Sep 18, 2018 | 07:49 PM
  #12394  
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I will be getting some 1" wide steel strips from work. Pretty flexible if needed. The flare itself with be mounted to the fenders, the front bumper end will be mounted to the steel part of the bumper only, and I will be fabricating brackets for the door. I have a build thread that I have more details on.
 
Old Sep 18, 2018 | 08:14 PM
  #12395  
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Swapped out all interior bulbs (minus gauges and dash) for LED's.
Also found two issues while doing it. The bulb under the passenger side dash was broken, which I discovered when I put my finger in the assembly to check for a burnt out bulb and shocked the **** out of my fingers when they came in contact with the filament. While changing out the glove box bulb I discovered that there was nothing hooked to the passenger side door switch. Looked all over for the wire plug but couldn't find it anywhere. I suspect it's somewhere out of sight and it happened when I had the heater core replaced,
The ashtray bulb was not easy to replace either.
The glove box light wouldn't come on at first because the door switch wouldn't move all the way out. Pulled the switch, disassembled it, and put a little lithium grease on the switch arm mechanism. Works great now.
Can't wait to check it all out tonight.
 
Old Sep 19, 2018 | 09:19 AM
  #12396  
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Golfaddict, what color of LEDs did you use?
​​​​​​I went with white for all, but put red in my glove box and ash tray light. (forgot about those two initially)
​​​
 
Old Sep 19, 2018 | 11:35 AM
  #12397  
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Originally Posted by Franco
When you say "new intake", do you mean intake manifold gaskets? If they did that, they would have R&R'ed the distributor. The bottom of the distributor goes into the top of the oil pump driveshaft. If the distributor is not seated properly (happened to me), the oil pump might not work properly and the timing would be off, which may be the source of your code.

That's the the first place I would look, anyway.
Let us know!
I'm still waiting to hear back from them. And yeah I do mean the intake manifold gaskets.
 
Old Sep 19, 2018 | 06:08 PM
  #12398  
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Originally Posted by N. Jensen
Golfaddict, what color of LEDs did you use?
​​​​​​I went with white for all, but put red in my glove box and ash tray light. (forgot about those two initially)
​​​
I went white for all. Thought about using blue or red but my eyes arent as sharp as they used to be so the more light the better. With all the lights on (including the map lights) I swear you could perform surgery in there.
 

Last edited by G0LFADD1CT; Sep 19, 2018 at 06:10 PM.
Old Sep 20, 2018 | 06:13 PM
  #12399  
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Using factory bracket for the front bumper.
Two at top of feont fender. Riveting to flare lip.
inner fender bolt on the side. Screw on bottom.
Three home made brackets for rear door. Bent by hand, galvanized 1" steel strips. Riveting to the door, will also be spray foaming the void.
Rear will be riveted to factory fender lip. Once the door section is cut out, it lines up perfect.
 
Old Sep 20, 2018 | 11:49 PM
  #12400  
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Removed the broken map light switch on the front drivers side. Used super glue and a small clamp to repair it. Reinstalled and it works good. Actually found that the rear drivers side switch was about ready to go so I fixed it too. I'll look for some replacements when I make my next you-pull-it trip.
 
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