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General ChatChat about all things Blazer (and related vehicles). Off-topic stuff should be in the lounge, and all mechanical problems should be posted in the proper forum.
2000 blazer,drove 1 mile didnt break down,,,,starting to think about putting on plow...just thinking about it...will be first time this winter....plastic plow???
G'day, Haven't done much with my Blazers lately. We are parting out a 2000 that had an engine fire and destroyed the wiring harness. Nice truck other than that. We have just about finished gathering parts for the K5 Blazer we are going to start on this winter. Picked up a donor vehicle with an injected 454 with a 4L80E and another with a 6.0 and a 4L80E. Just need to decide which would be easier.
You wouldn't have a front chrome bumper on that rig you'd like to sell would you?
Got a little headway on my Cadillac ATS seat swap.
Started by cutting off the original brackets and mounts from the Caddy seats. They REALLY don't want those brackets coming loose... they're welded all the way around... I wanted a flush surface to mount to, but in the end I decided that leaving a little of the bracket behind isn't going to hurt, so yeah there still some remains of the original brackets on the tracks lol
I bolted the lower portion of the Bravada seat tracks that I salvaged into the truck and we to set the seat in and found that the tops of them make the seat sit WAY to high... Before I pulled the seat back out, I went ahead and got the wiring sorted out and working. So now the Cadillac ATS seat has a Blazer plug on it Plugs in and works like stock.
Mocked up, the seat looks good in the truck though!
I pulled the Bravada brackets back out, ground out the rivets that hold them to the parts of the bracket that bolts to the floor, and this is the point I'm at now. Gotta get some flat stock and make some horizontal bars that'll adapt the Caddy seat tracks which are wider than the Blazer seat tracks, to the brackets bolted to the floor.
Blazen_red, I was thinking about those seat a couple of weeks ago. They are going to look and feel great.
I got more done on the flares this weekend, not as much as wanted, but come next week, I will hopefully be done. Lol.... I'm about 20% complete this project, only because 80% of the work is the rear!
Replaced the left front differential output bearing and output shaft seal. Not too hard to do but I was glad I did my homework on it. The old bearing looked ok but since I was in there, I thought it good to replace anyway.
Well, I've joined the ranks of someone who's replaced a fuel pump on my 1999 Chevy "Trail"Blazer. Things I learned during the process.
1)All those skidplate guards are a PITA but they did their job. No rust whatsoever on the tank strap bolts, retaining ears OR the tank lock ring!!! My jaw dropped after seeing all the videos of 20years of rust not existing on my particular truck.
2)Using 2 jacks really helps lowering the tank to siphon out gas and fiddle with the tank straps but becomes a PITA juggling back and forth lowering and then later raising it back up.
3) The fuel system quick release tools I bought at Harbor Freight were useless for this particular job. Finger pressure and breaking the pump side outlets is a LOT faster and easier in my case.
4) Even with all the grease, gas, and headaches, it was still better to spend $200 + my time VS paying someone else a lot more to do a simple but tedious job.
5) To hell with using a drift to rotate the locking ring. Using a large pair of channel locks on the square notch (at the top) and the NOT RUSTED dog ears of the tank (at the bottom) along with a gentle squeeze seated everything in place in a couple seconds instead of tapping followed by popping back out. Never saw this particular trick used by anyone but it made sense to me and most importantly WORKED!!!
All in all, my little $700 truck has needed a new door (pins were ovals before I bought it and bushing fell right out) from a junk yard. Patience yielded one with matching black paint AND a not broken inner door panel! A new heater core (Giant PITA but better than constantly having rad fluid on the windshield. Shift solenoids replaced (and original trans fluid retained). General tune up of plugs, cap, rotor and wires. Oh, and tires and battery. All in all, I've still saved several tens of thousands over buying a new truck so the struggle continues!
09-23-2018, 01:02 PM
Rookie replaces upper control arm 2002 2Wd
Plugs in and works like stock.
