well I succeeded at completely overreacting to the whole fuel sender unit BS. truck wouldn't start this morning after fuel gauge had been dead for a day and a half. Towed from my work to a shop Insurance tow bill. $109 later tomorrow as long as the truck still starts is what I get to pay for knowing that I ran out of gas. oh yeah and thirty bucks for another tank of gas. looks like it's back to the two hundo trip odometer method.

 

I did a heater core job, when all I needed to do was check the fluid... I feel your pain. Thankfully the job was all parts I had, but tearing two dash's apart was not a fun weekend... atleast it was nice...

 

Used the 'ol girl to take the wheelers out. She pulls a trailer with 2 ATVs on it great! The wife and I had an awesome time riding the trails, first time we've had actually taken them out since I got them

 

I added trans fluid and antifreeze today before we went and beat on the Jimmy tonight lol. I really need to get it in the shop and find where I'm loosing antifreeze from because it's getting worse. It also still needs tie rod ends, all 4 are shot, and another idler arm.

 

As for the coolant, there of course is the scary LIM gasket leak into the lifter valley but I've heard of leaks that only happen under pressure from pin holes. You might want to get a pump you can put in place of the radiator cap to pressurize your coolant system with it cool.

Are you going through idler arms? There are heavy duty options.

 

Dropped the truck off at the body shop for repairs to the rear bumper that will be paid for by the insurance company of the other driver.

Tinkered with my hard-wiring of a DRL and Auto-Headlamp circuit. I purchased a spare headlamp switch and installed a fog-light switch from a Pontiac to be the over-ride switch. I also added a small bulb to illuminate the dimmer dial part of the switch.

Getting close to installing it. When I do, it'll require cutting 4 wires that go to the BCM and installing plugs on them. I've set it up that I can always return the system to stock.


modified switch.



new bulb above the dimmer wheel




the backside of the switch with new connections to the existing fog light switch.

 

Nice work! That looks totally factory.

 

Yeah, that was my goal; to make it look factory and make it compatible with the existing electrical system as much as possible. When I get it installed, I'll do a proper write-up.

 

Ifs and 35" tires don't play well with each other lol. Just trying to make it survive until I solid axle it. I don't have any coolant in my oil so I don't think it's the intake gasket. It's coming from the passenger side so could be a few different things. I do know I have a pin hole in my rad though. I need to take a closer look at it. Before I do though I need to wash all the mud off it first. Spring time wheeling around here is my favorite time. Lol

 

Here is a picture with the lights on.


Leads to BCM that control DRL and Auto Headlamp control open (in manual mode) Note yellow indicator light on on the black push-button switch. The green light in the relays indicates that they have been turned onto open the circuits.



Leads to BCM that control DRL and Auto Headlamp control closed (default mode)