windshield wiper fuse keeps blowing
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Beginning Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 30
Thanks Truk for the support. Would you also agree that both shorts are in the same harness and are connected. And would you happen to have diagrams of the blower motor and blower relay connectors? I won't be able to get on this until Sunday. The weather here in Ma. really wimps.
Starting Member
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 238
From: Hardin Ky
Yea I can dig up the stuff on Alldata for my 98, should be same or close enough. Most likely short in same loc. Odds are you find the wiper short and the other in same spot. Something has to be rubbing and worn thru to ground it to blow that fuse and HVAC fuse soon as power gose live. In this case, easiest way for you is a digital multimeter that beeps for continuity (short/zero ohms) and a couple of alligator clips. If you have that should be able to locate problem area. Tip: make sure the alligator clip for the wiper connector is small enough to just clip “C” pin and not short to others. False readings from that would make it worse. You can always extend length with extra clip leads. (Small clips tend to have shorter leads) Then like a said just do audible testing. Red to “C” pin and black to ground. If correct I’m thinking will be shorted when you do this and moving the right spot will break the short and beep stops.
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Update. I am 99.9% sure I have found the short. The meter did not work for me. Every time I checked the wires there was constant continuity through the wires I would try to check. Intermittent. I then decided to check why the Underhood HVAC fuse kept blowing. After inspecting the harness I thought to just throw a 15 amp fuse in and see what happens. After five fuses I saw smoke. Question was where was the smoke coming from. Sixth fuse bingo. Seventh fuse I saw the arc I was looking for under and just to the right of the ABS motor. For know I have propped up the harness to prevent it from shorting until I make a game plan on how to approach this fix. From above or below either way it's going to be a bear to get at. Thanks Truk.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 492
From: Grayson KY
Update. I am 99.9% sure I have found the short. The meter did not work for me. Every time I checked the wires there was constant continuity through the wires I would try to check. Intermittent. I then decided to check why the Underhood HVAC fuse kept blowing. After inspecting the harness I thought to just throw a 15 amp fuse in and see what happens. After five fuses I saw smoke. Question was where was the smoke coming from. Sixth fuse bingo. Seventh fuse I saw the arc I was looking for under and just to the right of the ABS motor. For know I have propped up the harness to prevent it from shorting until I make a game plan on how to approach this fix. From above or below either way it's going to be a bear to get at. Thanks Truk.
It is always great when someone reports back when they fix the problem...
Starting Member
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 238
From: Hardin Ky
I’m going to hazard a guess that 1 of 2 things will be needed. On the 1, if lucky can just electrical tape the offending wires and rebundle and zip tie only if the wires themselves are in good shape. If other (2) will most likely have to get a new harness for that section from say a bone yard which while a hassle is really the better overall choice. My preference is option 2, boneyard for a new harness. Seeing you will be working on old first once you get at it should see how hard it is to strip replacement from a boneyard. I’d imagine needs only a few tools like wire cutters, needle nose pliers, couple of flat tip screwdrivers and say scissors to slit plastic sheath if needed. You should post a few photos.
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Joined: Apr 2013
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All of the electrical issues I was having are now fixed. I brought the truck over to the shop and showed them where the short was and we agreed that going at the short from below was the way to go. Some people won't agree with what I told him to do but taking a cut-off wheel he cut a 10X15 inch hole in the fender skirt to access the harness. He unwrapped the harness and found 9 burnt and damaged wires. He told me that he extended, soldered and shrink wrapped 7 of the wires and butt connected the other 2. Yesterday I took a 12X18 piece of sheet aluminum and a tube of J.B. Weld sealer and patched up the hole in the skirt. He charged me 200.00 for the repair. I spent another 20.00 for the supplies. I like to call that the cost of aggravation.
Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. Your input gave me the confidence to search out this pain in the pass.
That's all for know. I'll be back soon seeing I own a Blazer.
Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. Your input gave me the confidence to search out this pain in the pass.
That's all for know. I'll be back soon seeing I own a Blazer.
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jamon8
1st Generation S-series (1983-1994) Tech
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Mar 10, 2008 06:50 AM
