Persistence pays off! Nice, man!

 

BUT, just think how much you'd be shelling out every month for a brand new one, regardless of the brand.

 

I put Firestone Destination A/Ts on my Blazer (on Thursday, not quite today.)

Hit the road across the rockies the next day. Already put a little over a thousand kilometres on them and they feel great on the road.

I will say though, that even they'll lose their grip in the snow uphill in in 2wd. Once I had it in 4x4 in the crappy conditions she stopped slipping and responded really well.

Driving back through the rockies next week. They should be pretty worn in by then!

 

After spending nearly 3 days on it, the tune up is complete. She runs like new. Starts with just the bump of the key. Previously took a bit of effort to get her going.
Had to use a " flex socket " to remove the devil's spark plug. And even then, could only back it out 2 revolutions and had to use fingers the rest of the way. Don't know what I would have done if my fingers were any shorter.

 

I've had situations like that. I've got a sparkplug on the backside of the engine on my van that we couldn't change because we couldn't even get the plug wire off. There has to be a secret to that one.

However, I Just saw a post about this Tite Reach tool last night on Facebook. I did a little checking and it looks like something I'll try to add to my toolset at some point. I Know there have been times in the past that they would have come in handy. Sounds like it might be the ticket for that plug you were fighting. Check these out.

https://www.jbtoolsales.com/tite-rea...FYO4wAod89UKjA

https://www.amazon.com/Tite-Reach-TR...nsion%20wrench

 

Yep - the #3 on second gens is a bitch. Nice engineering there. Couldn't have lined it up more perfectly with the steering column.

Way to work, GM ...

When I replaced the #3 in mine, I found it was OEM original - 120k miles on it. Was the only AC Delco plug out of the set. Wasn't much of a center electrode left either.

I recall using an extension not seated all the way into the deep socket, and wrangling it out slowly that way.

 

I remember having to use a wrench to break loose one spark plug and then wiggle it out with my finger tips on the old 280Z I had but then it had a Chevy 350 stuffed under the hood.

I thought I was done turning wrenches for the time being... that's what I get for thinking. Took it on a test drive to town the other day and had a vibration somewhere around 45-55. It Really didn't feel like a frontend problem though as I didn't feel it in the steering wheel that much. However, after getting it up on jack-stands I could tell I had play in the frontend. I stopped and called AutoZone and had them transfer over the tie rod ends and idler arm as I wasn't sure what all had play.

I broke down most of it yesterday and pulled the inner and outer tie rod ends off as well as the idler arm. (I got to put that new pickle fork set to use.) At that point I was able to move the center link around and could tell I needed to change the pitman arm.


I looked at the pitman arm and decided that engineer should be put in the cage match as well. On the old 85 S10 Blazers you have to pull the power steering gear box in order to pull the pitman arm since it sits directly over the frame. It was getting late so I figured I'd 'close up shop', get that transferred over as well, and have supper.

I got out there today and looked over. Unfortunately I made the mistake of saying, "Well, there are only two lines, one bolt for the steering coupler, and three bolts holding it so it shouldn't be too bad." Famous last words. I guess I should consider myself lucky that only One out of three of those bolts broke with about four inches of the shank inside the frame. Grrrrrr! It was rusted in there bad enough that I had to use a two pound sledge (that my dad literally forged himself in school) and a pry bar to get it loose from the frame.

After that it came right out though so that was good. Sprayed it with P.B. Blaster and let it soak while I did a few other things. I was pleasantly surprised that it broke loose fairly easily after that with specialty channel locks with curved jaws. The pitman arm of course decided to be stubborn. Even with an impact it didn't want to break loose and come off. I'll be getting a little Redneck on it tomorrow. I'll do it like I had to do one in the past. We'll strap that sucker to a tree to hold the gearbox and then get my 1/2" breaker with a cheater on it.

Went to town, got a bolt to replace the one that broke, and then spotted someone with their hood up and fluid under their truck. We stopped to see if we could help even though we had things to get done. (It's just the right thing to do.) There was anti-freeze everywhere but we couldn't tell where it was actually coming from. I had her start it up and still nothing. Then it dawned on me. Sure enough it had overheated out on the road and she had pulled in to park. I told them they'd blown all the anti-freeze out. Her dad, who had come in a different vehicle to help her said he'd go get more anti-freeze. I told him it would be a waste of money as it would blow right back out based on how much was under the truck. He went and got water instead while I got under it again and wiped off everything I could and felt for ruptures in the hoses. Couldn't find anything. When he got back and started to pour the water in though it was a different story. After a gallon it began to drip from the bottom of the pulley underneath the water pump. I told them I was positive the pump was out. He asked where the closest place was that did work on vehicles was. He'd thought maybe Walmart and I'd told him no but Sears would which was roughly two miles away. I suggested filling it with water, refilling the jugs, and then heading that way. Told him to tell his daughter that IF it started to overheat by the next mile to pull into Costco parking lot, let it cool down, add more water then go the next mile. We were there Maybe 30 minutes. Not a big deal to me really. He tried to give me some money and I told him there was no need. He claimed he'd found it on the ground anyway and stuck it in the pocket of my jersey jacket. I'd laughed and said, "Someone else might find it on the ground now!" He grabbed it back out, stuck my keys back in my pocket and then stuck it in my son's pocket. We were surprised to find out it was a twenty dollar bill. Heck, I've done a lot more for strangers for a lot less!

Just call me Lucky

P.S. as it turns out we were in no rush anyway because AutoZone had Failed to get my parts transferred like they were supposed to!

 

Pulled and lubricated the parking brake assembly because it was stuck and wouldn't move. Replaced the cable between the assembly and the parking brake adjuster because I had to cut it a few years ago. Lubricated the hood latch mechanism because it wouldn't work either. Lubed the door hinges while I was at it. Installed new vent louvers on the dash, and the driver side speaker cover on the dash, that I picked up at the local You Pull It. Next is a new front bumper.

 

I pulled a GT4 ZR2 Blazer rear yesterday 3:73 G80 for my 4dr. $75 Now I'm debating whether to keep the stock 3:42 ratio GU6. Hmm... should I rebuild the 8.5 with unknown mileage or swap the hardened ZR2 front internals with the 198,000 mile originals. I can still get the front axle but I don't really want to add the cast iron weight or upset a recent front end alignment. I don't plan on running oversized taller tires, this mod is mainly for better trailer towing stability and equal track width,not for offroading strength.Either way I need to rebuild one of them or just swap in the ZR2 front axle. I am gas mileage conscious and there sits my dilemma,spend money to rebuild or spend more everyday...hmmm... ! P.S I'm also going to a V8 swap in the future and possibly AWD

 

the z rear end will get worse mileage and do not engage the 4wd until front and back match