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General ChatChat about all things Blazer (and related vehicles). Off-topic stuff should be in the lounge, and all mechanical problems should be posted in the proper forum.
I changed my transmission fluid on the weekend. I removed the top transmission cooler line from the radiator and re-installed a "stub" that I had cut from the line at the wrecker. I attached 3/8" clear tubing to the stub and ran it into a 5 gallon pail with gradations on the side. I ran the engine and removed 2 litres, then turned off the engine and added 2 litres. I added 20 L fluid of Dexron VI in total.
It was surprising to me to see the color change. The fluid looked fine to me on the dipstick. But as it was first pumped out it was obviously dark. After about 10 or 12 litres or so it began to clear up. And by the end it was very clean and transparent. Perhaps I'm imagining things but it feels like it shifts a little smoother.
Replaced the fuel pump in an attempt to fix the fuel gauge and also the truck not wanting to start sometimes. After all that work it didn't fix either. Takes two turns of the key to get him to start, and the fuel gauge always reads past FULL and hasn't moved in months.
Fuel gauge, fuel gauge, fuel gauge...
I might have been able to get the air-core gauge to work (if I have, I'll post). so I want to rig up a test board to test various air-core gauges without dismantling the Blazer dash each time. Today I'm searching for where the harness to the instrument panel comes from. I'm assuming that it comes from the BCM. If I'm wrong, let me know.
If not, where exactly do the analog signals form sensors get changed to the sine waves for the gauges?
Cheers, lads.
Brit
'04 Chevy Aveo
'99 Blazer 4x4 2-door LS
'60 Jensen 541R
I didn't actually do it, but Mother Nature dumped 2 feet of snow on my Blazer starting yesterday to today. It is still snowing more than 24 hours later but much lighter than before. Part of living in the Colorado mountains in the spring time!
Diagnosed a leak in the radiator on the same row but on the other side that I found back in November. Taking it out to fix it and the partially fixed other side. The JB Weld seemed to work well except for where I wasn't able to dry the aluminum surface as well as I had thought.
I'm also going to be installing the 1-ton idler arm upgrade for which the fan shroud was in the way along with a larger trans cooler. Having the radiator out of the way will help with both.