Thanks for the helpful information that this forum offers.

I had no working power mirror motors on my '95 Blazer. I popped open the driver's door switch panel and found power on orange and ground on black of the mirror switch. So the switch is suspect. I opened the switch. I broke the switch illumination bulbs in taking the switch apart. (I can't see any way to save the bulbs.) I scraped clean all the contacts under the 8 radial switches (with a utility knife blade). I scraped the 6 contacts under the L/R switch in the center. I tested for continuity on the contacts at the bottom of the L/R switch post. There was no continuity - so I took THAT apart too by prying the L/R **** off the top. (The 4 tiny springs want to get away from you!) I scraped the contacts on the round circuit board that slides on the shaft and holds the springs against the contacts. I scraped the ends of the springs. I stretched the springs slightly. I scraped both ends of the 4 contacts that the springs push on (2 long and 2 short). I put it all back together and it works fine now.

The bottom part of the switch had lots of cracks in the plastic - so I put a layer of plastic-weld (methyl methacrylate) over the bottom of the switch (but not over the center where the L/R switch rotates).

One of the clips that holds it all together was broken (someone had worked on this switch before me) - so I put a zip-tie around the switch to hold it all together.

The plastic-weld and the zip-tie do not interefere with installation.

While I was at it I identified what all the wires to the switch do, as follows:

Black (A) - cassis ground

White (B) - left-mirror: left(+)/right(-) motor

White/Bk (C) - right-mirror: left(+)/right(-) motor

Blue (D) - common to all four mirror motors but NOT chassis ground
- plus or minus depending on motor direction
- only ONE mirror motor is allowed to run at any time

Yellow (E) - left-mirror: up(-)/down(+) motor

Yellow/Bk (F) - right-mirror: up(-)/down(+) motor

Brown (G) - switch illumination

Orange (H) - +12V




Other helpful links:
https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...ng-help-28371/

https://blazerforum.com/forum/genera...or-swap-35124/

https://blazerforum.com/forum/builds...or-swap-33087/



Thanks again folks!

--coiley

 

I saw a bunch of 'no u/d' or 'no l/r' on a particular side mirror posts. Then, only a few hours after I revitalized my mirror switch and everything was working, the left-side u/d stopped working. SHOOT! That LH-u/d motion was the ONLY motion I was interested in! (I was prepared to hardwire a single u/d toggle for the LH mirror in place of the original switch.) So I downed the LH window and smacked the left mirror REAL hard three times. The LH-u/d worked fine immediately after that. Point is (to me) if a problem is isolated to one motion, better yet, one motor - look inside the mirror unit itself before tearing in to a wiring bundle. Smackin' the mirror (vigorous jostling) with positive results supports this approach.

Wire runs are the last thing I would look at. Look at the motors. Look at all the connections/connectors. Of course this is all after you have examined the door-console mirror switch - because that is going to be the problem 90% of the time in a 95-98 (drip, drip, drip).

If ONE mirror motion fails on ONE side - it is 99.99% chance in the mirror or it's connector.

If ONE mirror MOTION fails on BOTH sides it is most likely in the switch. But there is a remote chance that both sides same motion have failed at the same time. Unlikely - but not impossible.

If BOTH mirror MOTIONS fail only on ONE side - I would suspenect the l/r part of the arm-console switch.

If BOTH mirror motions fail on BOTH sides - we are TOTALLY back to the switch. If no mirror motions work - look at the switch. (The L/R **** is THE key to ALL mirror motion.)

If only one mirror motion fails - ESPECIALLY if it is only on one side - consider looking at the mirror mechanism itself or at it's connector. If either particular mirror motion fails on BOTH sides, go back to the switch. Once you understand how the switch works you will be able to isolate practically any mirror malfunction.

It's late. I'm afraid I may be blathering. Just trying to help.

--c