How Hard would it be to change leaf springs?
#21
Damn... Well that sucks. If that is the case, then you will have to loosen the gas tank and move it.
#22
Should the nut be on the outside? or should the nut be on the inside? I can cut the bolt and get it out...I have 2 new ones, but if I do that, I'm going to have to put the bolt in opposite of the way it's in there now....meaning that I have to put it in from the outside, and the nut will be between the bolt and gas tank. I can't imagine that this would make a difference, but If I don't do that, I will definitely have to remove the gas tank.
Last edited by rubeninfl; 05-07-2009 at 09:44 AM.
#23
If the thread protrusion of the bolt would not hit anything I would cut the head of the bolt off to remove it and then reverse the installation.
#24
Damn good idea. Get the new bolts first! Grade 8 only. Just measure up the originals and run down to your nearest farm supply store and they should have what you need.
#25
Okay...on to the next problem. I've got the spring out....bolts out.. Now I've put the new spring in place. I was able to put in the front bolt....putting it in so the nut is on the gas tank side. Then I raised the rear end of the spring to put the rear bolt in and it comes up about 2 inches short of the holes lining up. This is the correct leaf spring because i lined it up with the old one and they are exactly the same size. Obviously the holes will line up once there's some tension and it stretches out a bit. Maybe I'm putting this back together incorrectly? I was going to put the front and end bolts in first...and then get to the U-bolts. Is this wrong? Do I have to do the u-bolts first? I have to be doing something wrong here.
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blazerJim1701
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
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08-09-2009 10:32 AM